Graham Mitchell a former director of "The El Vino" wine company has made some controversial remarks regarding supermarket wine costing 4 or 5 pounds. He claims that most of it is incredibly dull. I am inclined to agree with him. As he points out most of the cost of a 5 pound bottle of wine is taken up by tax, transportation, bottling, labelling, marketing and profit. When you buy a 5 pound bottle you end up getting less than a pound's worth of wine. All other things being equal when you buy a 10 pound bottle you are getting about 6 pounds of wine after deductions are made for tax etc.
Graham Mitchell therefore recommends that you pay around 10 pounds to get a decent bottle of wine. I agree with this sentiment. For a long time in these pages I have advocated spending a little more on your wine in the search for quality. The wine buyer should still beware though as there are still plenty of bottles wine being sold that are not worth ten pounds. There are also some very good wines at around 7 to 8 pounds a bottle. We should not deride wine at 5 pounds a bottle, as most of it is perfectly acceptable but it can hardly be expected to show regional character when it has been mass produced. In general, a reputable supermarket is not going to offer its customers poor wine at 5 or even 4 pounds a bottle.
When I was studying wine, six years ago, one of my lecturers was a former economist turned winemaker. He averred during one his lectures that no bottle of wine cost more than 6 pounds to produce and that included the top cru investment wines. Top investment wines are so expensive because of the "opportunity cost" which you would have to pay the grower and producer to buy their land and their brand name. So, making a little allowance for inflation, let us say that the cost of producing a top wine is now 8 pounds per bottle and if you add on 4 pounds for the tax, transportation etc. then a top wine should be priced at 12 pounds. It is at this price point where you should be getting something rather special for your money. After this price point you are starting to pay for the name and renown of the wine. My lecturer was not a Master of Wine but his views are imprinted in my mind. Wine like everything else should provide value for money.
I am reluctant to spend more than about 12 or 13 pounds for a bottle of wine and I expect to drink something exceptional when I do. One example of an exceptional wine is Château Larose Perganson, this is a fine example of a Medoc wine which really shows regional character. And which in my view is a top quality wine that rivals any others that I have drunk at much higher prices. You can still buy bottles of the 2002 vintage for around 23 pounds a bottle but, even so, at this price you are starting to pay for the good name of the producer.
Another favourite wine of mine is Torres Mas La Plana red from Catalonia; this wine is also one of the finest I have ever drunk and bottles of this wine are available for around 27 pounds. It is much cheaper in Spain. In my view red wine does not come finer than this and it is almost pointless to pay stratospheric prices to drink wine that is no better. Buy a few bottles and lay them down in a cool dark place and then enjoy them in ten to fifteen years time when you will have to pay more for the vintage.
Graham Mitchell has raised a really good point about wine. We have to be realistic and we have to have a down to earth view of both the marketing and the value for money of our wine. Most 5 pound bottles of wine are just every day drinking varieties which are not the exceptional wines that the label would have us believe.
Equally, at the other end of the scale a 250 pound bottle of wine is not worth the price difference when compared to a lesser known wine of equal quality. You are paying for the brand name and the rarity value. Much of this rarity value is created by investors. Luckily, top wines like Château Larose Perganson are still available at almost reasonable prices.
Tuesday, 17 April 2012
Monday, 16 April 2012
McGuigan Estate Shiraz 2010 Red
McGuigan's Estate wines have won prizes. I am afraid that McGuigan Estate Shiraz 2010 Red, they also make a Rosé, will not be winning any prizes from me. This wine is bog standard Shiraz from the New World and shows no regional character whatsoever. It is produced from red grapes from various parcels of vines throughout South Australia. It tastes as if it could come from anywhere warm. I have even tried wines from the South of France, which were produced from the Syrah grape, and which taste very much the same. Syrah in France equals Shiraz in the New World.
This is not bad wine but it is of standard quality. It is very fruity and tastes of the plum and blackcurrant indicated on the label. It also has a spicy taste reminiscent of the Syrah or Shiraz grape. The wine is reasonably well balanced with medium plus tannins and well integrated acidity. It is full bodied but is not particularly strong in alcohol which at 13.5 % alcohol by volume is a good thing as the wine does not taste hot. The wine also has an oak flavour, so it must have been close to some sort of wood. The problem with the wine is that it is a bit jammy tasting and half a bottle with some home made Chinese food was about as much as I could take. But the spice went down quite well with the food. Two evenings later we finished off the other half of the bottle with some home made Cornish pasties which were also spicy. If the wine is unremarkable it is at least versatile. If I am given another bottle I would be quite happy to drink it again with some strong food.
I have seen this wine advertised on websites between 5 and 10 pounds a bottle. In these straitened times 5 pounds seems about right.
This is not bad wine but it is of standard quality. It is very fruity and tastes of the plum and blackcurrant indicated on the label. It also has a spicy taste reminiscent of the Syrah or Shiraz grape. The wine is reasonably well balanced with medium plus tannins and well integrated acidity. It is full bodied but is not particularly strong in alcohol which at 13.5 % alcohol by volume is a good thing as the wine does not taste hot. The wine also has an oak flavour, so it must have been close to some sort of wood. The problem with the wine is that it is a bit jammy tasting and half a bottle with some home made Chinese food was about as much as I could take. But the spice went down quite well with the food. Two evenings later we finished off the other half of the bottle with some home made Cornish pasties which were also spicy. If the wine is unremarkable it is at least versatile. If I am given another bottle I would be quite happy to drink it again with some strong food.
I have seen this wine advertised on websites between 5 and 10 pounds a bottle. In these straitened times 5 pounds seems about right.
Friday, 13 April 2012
2008 Irancy Domaine Heimbourger
This excellent wine is produced in the village of Saint-Cyr-les Colons which is situated 6 kilometres from Irancy in the Yonne department in the North of Burgundy. Domaine Heimbourger Irancy red has been awarded Appellation Irancy Contrôlee status and the wine reflects the the character of the region. It is very light coloured and could be mistaken for a rosé wine. It is elegant with a cherry flavour typical of Irancy and it also has a mineral flavour. Irancy is one of my favourite red wines as it reflects strong regional character.
The people of the area are down to earth and unpretentious and this is reflected in the quality of the wine which is tremendous value for money.
I can't remember where we bought this wine and how much it cost but I doubt that it was more than 10 euros a bottle. On the basis of price versus quality it is a winner. We drank it with roast chicken but it will go down equally as well with game. Irancy is difficult wine to obtain in the UK , luckily we pay many visits to the Yonne to see family. I recommend a trip there to all wine lovers of red, and white wine and Chablis is not far.
The people of the area are down to earth and unpretentious and this is reflected in the quality of the wine which is tremendous value for money.
I can't remember where we bought this wine and how much it cost but I doubt that it was more than 10 euros a bottle. On the basis of price versus quality it is a winner. We drank it with roast chicken but it will go down equally as well with game. Irancy is difficult wine to obtain in the UK , luckily we pay many visits to the Yonne to see family. I recommend a trip there to all wine lovers of red, and white wine and Chablis is not far.
Thursday, 5 April 2012
2010 Quincy Chai de Maison Blanche - but watch out for the Cliffs
We recently made a trip to Normandy to stay at " La Vieille Ferme" in Mesnil-Val-Plage. It was a very comfortable hotel with a very good restaurant that specialises in sea food. The service was very friendly. On our first night for "amuse-gueule" the restaurant served up a small portion of magret de canard cru mariné: this is marinaded raw duck - in English. It was excellent. The only other time I had tried raw fowl was in Japan but it was not so good. We ordered a bottle of 2010 Quincy Chai de Maison Blanche Cave Romane de Brinay to go with our seafood dishes. The wine was excellent with a strong tangy taste of green fruits and citrus. The wine had a dryness and freshness which cleared the palate and even went down quite well with the marinated duck.
Amongst our shell fish we ate Amandes de Mer which are clams that can be eaten raw. I have never eaten these before and they were as delicious as the oysters and they even had a slight taste of almonds but was that the power suggestion? These clams live in the Atlantic waters around the UK but we never eat them. We call them the "dog-cockle" how romantic and adventurous can you get? The clams can also be cooked but I guess that like mussels they would get rubbery if you over cooked them. The restaurant cooked them perfectly.
If you like seafood and a comfortable quiet hotel then " La Vieille Ferme" and Mesnil-Val-Plage are worth visiting and recommended. But if you are British, American or German be careful walking along the cliffs you might end up in the drink.
Amongst our shell fish we ate Amandes de Mer which are clams that can be eaten raw. I have never eaten these before and they were as delicious as the oysters and they even had a slight taste of almonds but was that the power suggestion? These clams live in the Atlantic waters around the UK but we never eat them. We call them the "dog-cockle" how romantic and adventurous can you get? The clams can also be cooked but I guess that like mussels they would get rubbery if you over cooked them. The restaurant cooked them perfectly.
If you like seafood and a comfortable quiet hotel then " La Vieille Ferme" and Mesnil-Val-Plage are worth visiting and recommended. But if you are British, American or German be careful walking along the cliffs you might end up in the drink.
Brooklyn Lager
I went up to the West End of London the other day to treat myself to a salt beef sandwich in the Brass Rail bar. They had one of my favourite beers: Brooklyn Lager. This beer is more strong than the continental lagers which I am used to and it has a deep amber colour. It has a nutty, hoppy taste and a floral nose. The taste is distinctive just like an estate bottled wine. It was the perfect complement to a beef sandwich. The decor of the Brass Rail bar is slightly reminiscent of New York and for a few brief moments I felt like I was making a visit, but the sandwich was too small. A great beer from a great city.
Friday, 16 March 2012
3d Wines Saumur-Champigny 2009 Domaine de la Cune
Domaine de la Cune was one of the first vineyards to become a member of 3D wines. 3D wines offer consumers the prospect of renting rows of wines at the member vineyards. The vine share scheme allows participants to visit their vineyard, meet the producer and buy cases of the wine at discount prices. I am not a participant myself but have tasted 3D wines from several of their vineyards and I am impressed with the results. I have also been to tastings organised by them.
The "3 Jeans" Saumur-Champigny 2009 is an excellent wine which is produced from the Cabernet Franc grape which is well suited to the Loire Valley climate. It has a concentrated plum and red fruit flavour with a touch of spice and the structure of the wine will enable you to keep it for several years longer. It shows regional character which is also the hallmark of a good wine. My wine was a gift but on the open market I estimate that it would cost you around £11 a bottle.
I was also given a bottle of Domaine de la Cune Crémant de Loire Brut Non -vintage. This wine is also of high quality and compares favourably with its competitors from Burgundy. Crémant de Loire is produced primarily from the Chenin Blanc grape variety. It is not as elegant as Champagne but goes down well at a party. I estimate that the retail price of this wine is also around £11 pounds a bottle. It is well worth trying but please do not regard it as a substitute to Champagne.
3D wines is well worth considering if you like making frequent trips to France to taste wine.
Wednesday, 14 March 2012
Château Beychevelle 2002 Bordeaux red
Château Beychevelle is one of my favourite wines. I do not get to drink it very often because it is so expensive. A friend of mine gave me this bottle several years ago and I kept it to drink at a later date with him and his wife. We drank this wine with Cumberland roast beef which was cooked rare and in the French tradition.
In the 1855 Bordeaux classification this wine was awarded quatrième cru or fourth growth status but its quality deserves a higher rating in my opinion. It is superb wine which benefits from the terroir of its Saint Julien situation. The climate, weather and soil are perfect for the agriculture of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes which make up the majority of the blend for the wine. The terroir and vineyard techniques coupled with superb wine making produce one of the world's finest wines.
2002 was not a particularly renowned year amongst professional buyers but it did produce a good vintage especially in the Medoc. My friend's wife , who is French, could not guess where the wine was from; she thought that it might be from Cahors! That was quite a tribute. She could not believe, however, how concentrated the wine was. So it was no surprise when I told her where the wine was really from. The concentration of good flavours is an indication of quality. So is the length of time that the wine's flavour remains on the tongue after swallowing or spitting it out. When I wrote a tasting note upon opening the wine and decanting it, its taste remained on my palate for a good five minutes. When we drank the wine in large glasses as opposed to a tasting glass I was hit by the concentration and complexity of flavours that only a top class wine can deliver.
This wine costs over fifty pounds a bottle on the retail market. Is it worth it? I often debate with myself about this and come up with conflicting answers. This wine does not taste significantly better than other examples of good quality wine from the Medoc but costing a lot less. However, it does not taste significantly worse than "investment" type Bordeaux reds wines costing much much more. Its quality is almost the same as the top Bordeaux cru and it will probably keep for just as long and improve in the bottle as well as its more renowned cousins. If, like me, you cannot afford to drink the very top cru very often, or if at all, then it is worth buying this wine and from this vintage to get a feel of what you are missing. The top cru are very costly not because of their elevated quality but because of their rarity value. On these grounds the wine is worth buying. The other superb wines from St Julien include: Châteaux Gruaud Larose, Lagrange, Leoville Barton, Leoville Las Cases, Talbot and Ducru Beaucaillou. If you cannot afford their first wines you will not be disappointed by the second wines. It is very difficult for red wines from other parts of the world to compete with this wine and this is another good reason to try it.
Here is my tasting note.
Château Beychevelle 2002 tasted on 11 March 2012
Appearance: Clear deep ruby turning garnet colour. Tears.
The nose: Clean smelling with complex aromas of red fruits, cedar and tobacco box with a slightly smokey aroma. Mature enough to drink now but it will develop further.
On the palate: A medium plus body, high in ripening tannins, medium acidity and dry. Very concentrated and complex flavours of red fruits , plums, prunes and spices. There was also a flavour of tobacco boxes. There were hints of savoury and smokey flavours. Well balanced and integrated. Exceptionally long length.
Other observations and conclusions: This wine is of exceptional quality and will merit keeping for longer. It is very expensive to buy but probably worth the price to find out what a highly quality wine should taste like.
In the 1855 Bordeaux classification this wine was awarded quatrième cru or fourth growth status but its quality deserves a higher rating in my opinion. It is superb wine which benefits from the terroir of its Saint Julien situation. The climate, weather and soil are perfect for the agriculture of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes which make up the majority of the blend for the wine. The terroir and vineyard techniques coupled with superb wine making produce one of the world's finest wines.
2002 was not a particularly renowned year amongst professional buyers but it did produce a good vintage especially in the Medoc. My friend's wife , who is French, could not guess where the wine was from; she thought that it might be from Cahors! That was quite a tribute. She could not believe, however, how concentrated the wine was. So it was no surprise when I told her where the wine was really from. The concentration of good flavours is an indication of quality. So is the length of time that the wine's flavour remains on the tongue after swallowing or spitting it out. When I wrote a tasting note upon opening the wine and decanting it, its taste remained on my palate for a good five minutes. When we drank the wine in large glasses as opposed to a tasting glass I was hit by the concentration and complexity of flavours that only a top class wine can deliver.
This wine costs over fifty pounds a bottle on the retail market. Is it worth it? I often debate with myself about this and come up with conflicting answers. This wine does not taste significantly better than other examples of good quality wine from the Medoc but costing a lot less. However, it does not taste significantly worse than "investment" type Bordeaux reds wines costing much much more. Its quality is almost the same as the top Bordeaux cru and it will probably keep for just as long and improve in the bottle as well as its more renowned cousins. If, like me, you cannot afford to drink the very top cru very often, or if at all, then it is worth buying this wine and from this vintage to get a feel of what you are missing. The top cru are very costly not because of their elevated quality but because of their rarity value. On these grounds the wine is worth buying. The other superb wines from St Julien include: Châteaux Gruaud Larose, Lagrange, Leoville Barton, Leoville Las Cases, Talbot and Ducru Beaucaillou. If you cannot afford their first wines you will not be disappointed by the second wines. It is very difficult for red wines from other parts of the world to compete with this wine and this is another good reason to try it.
Here is my tasting note.
Château Beychevelle 2002 tasted on 11 March 2012
Appearance: Clear deep ruby turning garnet colour. Tears.
The nose: Clean smelling with complex aromas of red fruits, cedar and tobacco box with a slightly smokey aroma. Mature enough to drink now but it will develop further.
On the palate: A medium plus body, high in ripening tannins, medium acidity and dry. Very concentrated and complex flavours of red fruits , plums, prunes and spices. There was also a flavour of tobacco boxes. There were hints of savoury and smokey flavours. Well balanced and integrated. Exceptionally long length.
Other observations and conclusions: This wine is of exceptional quality and will merit keeping for longer. It is very expensive to buy but probably worth the price to find out what a highly quality wine should taste like.
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