Last Friday evening I went to the Cork and Bottle in London's West End, with my wife Bernadette, to meet a French friend. I have been going to this wine bar off and on since the 1970's and it was here that I first drank one of Australia's best wines Chateau Tahbilk red which is outstanding. The Cork and Bottle has always had a wide range of wines from all over the world.
http://www.laytons.co.uk/content/chateau-tahbilk
Guess the wine
We got talking about wine with Christelle, who runs the bar, and asked her to find us a wine which was a little bit different but not French. She brought us an unidentified wine in a decanter and asked us to guess where it was from.
Blind tasting and identifying the wine is one of the most difficult things I have done. And other people who I have met find it very difficult too, especially if you are doing a wine exam. One of my wine course colleagues once mistook Campbells Rutherglen Muscat for Port. Worse still he described his Port based on the assumption that it was the Rutherglen and got marked down as a result. Good job it was a mock exam!
How did this happen? He worked in the wine trade and was an experienced taster. It was nerves and the pressure of the exam situation. I was surprised that this happened to him. There are so many factors that influence our tasting abilities and decision making. Some of these include: our mood, the pressure of the situation and even if someone is wearing strong aftershave or perfume next to you: but more of this later.
We tasted our wine blind but there were some clues as to what the wine could or could not be. We had asked Christelle not to give us a French wine and we trusted her. I know the wine card pretty well and I have not noticed Slovenian wine on the menu so that could be eliminated etc.
My first thoughts were to try and eliminate the styles of wine and I concluded that the wine was not from the New World. The wine tasted as if it was European and I guessed Spanish and the Tempranillo grape. My wife and friend agreed that it was Spanish. My wife thought it was Rioja and I thought it was from Navarra. Our friend just thought it was Spanish.
Imagine our surprise when Christelle showed us the bottle: 2009 Celeste Ribera del Duero red from Torres and 100% Tempranillo! Not a bad guess, Ribera del Duero is not far from the Rioja and Navarra regions and for me it was the vanilla spicy flavour which was the giveaway. We had done well and we should all feel proud of our tasting abilities. We did not cheat,either, by asking the wine waiter or looking at the wine card for clues.
Why were we not able to narrow it down further? We have never been to the region but we have made visits to Rioja and Navarre and this influenced our guessing. We have drunk many many bottles of Rioja and Navarra red but few bottles of Ribera del Duero. The last time we tasted this appellation, as far as I can remember, was in Madrid when we drank a mature bottle of Valbuena, the second wine of Vega Sicilia, with a meal and it was great.
http://www.majestic.co.uk/find/product-is-14346 -this is much cheaper in Spain.
The 2009 Celeste is from Torres who is one of Spain's top producers. His Mas la Plana Cabernet Sauvignon Penedès easily competes with the top growths from Bordeaux. The Celeste went down very well with the Cork and Bottle Hamburgers and tastes just as described in the following tasting note. This wine will keep.
http://www.dreyfusashby.com/docs/232/2009/Celeste-TECH-09.pdf
You can buy Mas La Plana at Waitrose and it is well worth the money. Why pay hundreds of pounds for Bordeaux premier cru or Vega Sicilia Unico for that matter?
http://www.waitrosedirect.com/product/torres-mas-la-plana-cabernet/088676
http://ribera-del-duero.uvinum.co.uk/vega-sicilia-unico-1999?utm_source=Google%2BMerchant&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=marketplaces
Tasting and Objectivity
Wine tasting is a very controversial subject. The object of a wine tasting is to assess the quality of the wine rather than its provenance. To assess the quality of a wine you need to be able to see, smell and taste the wine under good light and in a tasting room which is free of any type of odour which could mask the smell or flavour of the wine.
The wine must also be tasted at a suitable temperature for the style of wine and you really need to use an uncontaminated standard tasting glass. Even if conditions are perfect the body reacts better on some days than others. If you have got a cold it affects your ability to taste and smell properly. There is also the power of suggestion that one wine is better than another. Therefore, you really need to taste in double blind conditions where the adjudicator and the taster do not know which wine is being sampled.
Even under the most perfect conditions it is all a very subjective process; everyone has their own personal preferences for a style or taste of wine. Who can argue against someone who says that their Champagne tastes of coconuts?
Some wine experts claim that they can identify any wine and the year it was produced or even the part of the vineyard where the grapes were grown. Well let them prove it under true double blind conditions. Let them prove that they can do this consistently. There are many thousands of wines and this is not possible.
It is possible, however, to identify a wine if you have drunk enough of it as you simply remember what it tastes like.
I was always able to recognise my mother's apple tarts and her beef broth and dumplings: her sister had a similar style of cooking but I could always distinguish between the two. I have made this claim and you can choose to believe it or not. I have no way of providing scientific proof. Tasting is a very subjective skill.
You can read more about all this here http://winejaw.com/Page1.html.
Wine tasting and the Moon phases
At the Lille wine fair in November we met some bio-dynamic wine producers who grow and treat their crops according to the philosophy of Rudolf Steiner and Maria Thun. This is discussed in my previous blog. Maria Thun proposes that you plant, and grow agricultural and gardening products according to the phases of the moon and certain days on a bio-dynamic growing calendar.
According to Thun there is an astrological cycle which needs to be followed. There are root, leaf, flower and fruit days. What about branches are they not important too? It seems not. There is absolutely no scientific evidence that it makes any difference. It is just a claim with no scientific foundation. You can believe it if you want to.
Consider this, however, 2012 was almost a disastrous year for farmers and vine growers in the north of Europe. Some people lost all their produce because of the bad weather. Working their farm according to strict adherence to an astrological cycle could not save them. The sensible farmer tends his crops according to the weather no matter how superstitious he may be.
http://www.the-gardeners-calendar.co.uk/moonplanting.asp
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/7676520/Does-the-moon-affect-how-a-wine-tastes.html
Some people believe that wine tastes better according to the Thun cycle, so it is better to taste wine on a fruit day than a root day as it simply tastes better. This is a claim which can not be proven. Where is the mechanism which drives this? Some people claim it is the gravitational effect of the moon.
Tidal influences are only noticeable on large bodies of water such as very large lakes, the seas and the oceans.The gravitational effect of the moon on the human body is miniscule and on a bottle of wine it would be even smaller. Such an effect could easily be overcome by local variations to the earth's gravity.
Some supermarkets are organising tastings according to the astrological calendar. I suggest that the power of suggestion is at work here: "today is a fruit day and everybody knows it so the wine must taste better". Maria Thun says so and she is the messiah. It is quite easy for this power of suggestion to be passed on to the unsuspecting public.
Today (28th), I guessed that we were getting very close to the full moon. I was not surprised when I looked up the phases of the moon on my computer that it was full. Why was that? My morning tea tasted the same as the days before. My Tiger beer and Chinese lunch tasted the same. I do not feel any different because it is a full moon. If, I was superstitious I could have thought otherwise and refused a beer with my lunch and chosen wine instead.
How did I know a full moon was close? I knew because I like to go out and look at the stars. I have a mild interest in Astronomy but not Astrology. I had been unconsciously counting the days so I knew a full moon was close even though we have had overcast weather for a week. Tonight I might be able to go out to see it.
At a blind wine tasting a superstitious taster could easily count the number of days and work out it was a fruit day and decide that the wine tastes better. Would you trust their judgement? Is there a power of auto-suggestion?
On Tuesday, I went to lunch with a colleague and good friend. Our bottle of Argentinian Malbec tasted great not because it was a "fruit day" but because it was a very good wine in itself and it was also bucketing down with rain outside. Maybe it's the weather again.
We should all keep our feet on solid ground when it comes to wine and forget all the pretention.
http://www.food24.com/Wine/Features/Yes-the-moon-affects-the-way-you-taste-wine-20120703
http://www.winemakermag.com/stories/article/indices/42-winemaking-tips/527-myth-busting -I really like this one rational and down to earth.
The Cork and Bottle
The Cork and Bottle is a great wine bar right in the centre of the West End. It is a good place to meet and every bottle on the menu is a good one. The staff are friendly and helpful and there is a nice comfortable cosmopolitan atmosphere. The food is standard fare so do not expect fine dining, but you really can't leave without eating. You can enjoy your wine here, however, blind tasted or not and no matter what day it is.
http://thecorkandbottle.co.uk/?page_id=6
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=cork+and+bottle+london&hl=en&fb=1&gl=uk&hq=cork+and+bottle&hnear=0x47d8a00baf21de75:0x52963a5addd52a99,London&cid=0,0,13426048862805738983&t=m&z=16&iwloc=A
Thursday 29 November 2012
Wednesday 28 November 2012
Lille Wine Fair November 2012: Salons des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants Lille 2012
The weekend before last we went to the Lille Wine Fair for the Independent Winemakers of France or the Salons des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants. Here is my review.
Vignerons Indepéndants de France
The Independent Winemakers of France or Vignerons Indépendants de France was incorporated in Paris in 1978. It protects and promotes independent wine makers. Included in the charter for the winemakers is the will to:
respect their "terroir",
grow and work their own vines,
harvest their own vines,
to produce their own wine,
bottle the wine on their own premises,
market their products
respect wine making traditions,
take pleasure in the presentation of the fruits of their work by encouraging the public to visit their premises and taste the wine.
http://www.vigneron-independant.com/
"Terroir"
The concept of "terroir" is not that difficult to understand; it means a native tang. A wine that has a "goût de terroir" reflects the particular taste of the region. The soil, geology, climate, weather, wine growing and wine making techniques all have a bearing on the character of the wine. Some makers even claim that the culture of the region also has a bearing and who I am to disagree with that.
The concept of "terroir" is not limited to France and even shows up in Australia where high quality winemakers have always taken the soil, climate and weather into account in their wine making practises.
If the concept of "terroir" is neglected, however, we will end up drinking bland, bulk produced wine which is lacking in character and individuality. Such wines are OK for a party or barbecue or sloshing back at home in front of the TV but if you want a wine which goes with a particular food or for a special occasion then you need to look for a wine with a "goût de terroir".
Why Drink their wines
The Independent Winemakers form the backbone of quality wine production. Because, they are not linked to large co-operatives or bulk wine producers they can concentrate on their own product, market and livelihood. They are not beholden to shareholders and are not obliged to maximise the return on investment or profitability to the detriment of the quality of their wine.
The top brand names of France, particularly of Champagne, Bordeaux, and Burgundy are very expensive. Some of these wines are only bought by investors and their price is now so high that they are inaccessible to ordinary folk who will never get to drink them.
There is no need to worry, however, most of the Independent Winemakers make wine which tastes just as good as the top brand names even if the wine does not keep as long. In case of Champagne, I find the taste and quality of the wine from the good growers and makers often exceeds that of the top brand names who blend their products from different vineyards and areas.
The Independent Winemakers represent exceptional value for money; high quality wines at reasonable prices. So, it is among these producers that the wine enthusiast can find wine of individual character and high quality. The bulk wine market cannot do this.
There is room for all wine producers and there is no need to disparage bulk wine makers from any region or country and I drink these wines myself. They are there for when you just want to drink acceptable quality wine without worrying about where it comes from. But if you want something a little bit different then the Independent Winemakers are the people to look for.
The Wine Fair
Lille is a good place for a wine fair. The city itself has some fine architecture and a comfortable feel about it. The food is very good and there is a brewing tradition so some of the cuisine is based on beer. It is easy to get here from Britain, Belgium, Holland and Northern Germany.
There were 578 vignerons and thousands of individual tasters and buyers along with a good number of buyers from the wine trade. With such a huge numbers of exhibitors and so many visitors it was sometimes difficult to strike up a conversation with the producer. The Champagne stands were particularly busy. I quickly gave up taking notes and just enjoyed the occasion. Individual wine tasting invitations are better if you want to take notes.
I did not spot any Masters of Wine or pundits with score cards. Who wants to score wines anyway and how can you possibly say that one wine is 19 out of 20 and another 18? It is a numbers game which plays into the hands of investment wine makers. At this wine fair you were mixing with down to earth people who just want to enjoy making or drinking good wine.
We spent the whole of Sunday and Monday morning at the Fair which had plenty of regional food to eat and buy and the facilities were good but a little bit stretched. As per usual, I spat out most of the wine that I tasted to remain sober but sometimes I found it difficult not to swallow the Champagne - for some reason.
And now let's look at some of the producers and their wine.
Domaine de La Cune - Loire Valley
We attended the wine fair courtesy of Jean-Luc and Jean-Albert Mary. They are members of 3D wines and my sister and brother in law are one of their customers. I have already written about how good I think their wines are and we have a case of their 2010 Saumur-Champigny Rouge waiting to be drunk. You must also try their Crémant de Loire.
I like the attitude of this Domaine; they are not frightened to use science and technology to improve results without forgetting about wine making tradition. Their wines are very good quality and very good value for money. I would be prepared to pay more for them. This is wine making at its best.
This time we tasted their white wines: the Saumur Cuvée Tradition 2011 and the Cuvée La Favorite 2011. Both wines are based on Chenin Blanc and are light to medium bodied with a crisp but well integrated acidity. They have all the fresh green fruit and tangy flavours that I would expect from a Saumur Blanc and their style is easily recognised. I preferred the La Favorite which had more concentrated fruit flavours.
I recommend that you drink them young. They would go particularly well with fish. 2012 was not a good vintage in northern France so I wish them the best of luck. A visit to this stand stood us in good stead for the rest of the tasting. It was a very good start and put me in a really good mood.
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/3d-wines-saumur-champigny-2009-domaine.html
http://www.3dwines.com/french/loire/domaine-de-la-cune.html
Château de Roquebrune - Lalande de Pomerol
In a few steps you could travel south from the Loire to the Bordeaux region. The name Château de Roquebrune brought back memories of a visit to the Cave de Roquebrun in the Languedoc. Cave de Roqubrun produces some of the highest quality wine of St Chinian. Chateau de Roquebrune matches its quality if not its style. Not that my observations would cut any ice with the Libournais.
We tasted the 2007 red and the 2009 "Cuvée Reine" these are both excellent wines which are typical of the Lalande de Pomerol. They are full of red fruits with soft tannin and a medium to full body. 2009 was an excellent vintage and the "Cuvée Reine" is a particularly fine example. The wine had all the lively and concentrated flavours and complexity that I would expect from a very good wine. The flavour lingered long on the palate.
This wine has an individual character and I could have quite happily supped a bottle there and then. It is made predominantly from the Merlot grape so it can be drunk young but I am certain you could keep this wine for a good number of years to improve in the bottle.
The vines are grown on sand and gravel soils which are almost perfect for the growth of the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes which make up the blend.
As chance would have it, this was the only Bordeaux wine that I tasted but I did not go far wrong. This wine is worth searching for.
http://www.chateauderoquebrune-wine.co.uk/wine-presentation.htm
Château les Marnières Pécharmant - The South West Region
I very rarely see Pécharmant on sale in England ,if ever, so I was attracted to this stand. I was not disappointed. Pécharmant is the grand cru for the red wine of the Bergerac region. It is made in similar style to Bergerac reds but the wines are more concentrated and complex and have more tannin will allows them to age for longer: up to ten years or more.
Château les Marnières is a classic example and although the 2010 Pécharmant can be drunk now it should improve in the bottle for several years. The quality of this wine can easily compete with its better known cousins in Bordeaux. It also has some Malbec blended into add some tannin structure and intense ruby colour. This Pécharmant is one of the best I have tasted and is exceptional value for money. Try some if you can find it.
Château les Marnières also produce Bergerac red and dry white and Monbazillac. We tasted the Monbazillac 2010 "Les Nobles Fruits" this wine is also excellent. It is produced from grapes exposed to "noble rot" which concentrates the sugars in the grapes to produce a sweet wine in the style of Sauternes. This wine was full of the flavour of fruit confit and citrus fruits and, of course, honey. Another wine which is good value for money.
This was one of my favourite stands. In my mind, Pécharmant and Monbazillac are under-rated stars. They both have the goût de terroir to complement the wonderful cuisine of the Périgord.
http://www.chateaulesmarnieres24.fr/vin-rouge-du-sud-ouest-situe-pecharmant.html
http://www.chateaulesmarnieres.com/produits/pecharmant-2010-fut-de-chene
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noble_rot
http://www.terroir-france.com/region/southwest_monbazillac.htm
http://www.pays-de-bergerac.com/english/wine/index_pecharmant.asp
Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge - Languedoc
I was pleasant surprised to see this wine here. Mas de Daumas Gassac rouge is made in a Medoc style primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Because the blend of grapes does not fit into the appellation rules the wine is only granted Indication Géographique Protégée status. However, this wine has all the quality of a Bordeaux or Bourgogne Grand Cru.
The vineyard is situated in the Pays d'Hérault north west of Montpellier and in the Gassac valley. The special soil here is made up of calcareous limestone grèzes mixed with red powder earth derived from the ice age. The soil combined with the micro-climate of the valley perfectly suits the growth of high quality grapes which are raised according to organic standards.
We tasted the 2010 Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge. This wine is of outstanding quality but it is still a little closed up. To appreciate it at its best it needs to be allowed to develop in the bottle for much longer. After five years the wine should be drunk with food and decanted an hour or two before you dine. It will be full of concentrated and complex red and stone fruit flavours which will charm you.
The wine will develop in the bottle further for another 20 years or so. Why not buy two bottles? Keep one for five years and the other for twenty if you can resist it. The wine is expensive but not exorbitant. Buy it to savour on a special occasion.
The circumstances of the tasting did not do justice to the wine as it is best appreciated in private with good friends over dinner. However, it was a treat to both see it and taste it.
http://www.daumas-gassac.com/Mas_de_Daumas_Gassac_Rouge-p-50-c-34_35.html
http://www.robersonwine.com/shop/mas-de-daumas-gassac-rouge-2008
Domaine Mourguy -Irouléguy -The South West Region
The South West Region is diverse and fragmented and does not have a specific identity of its own such as the Côtes du Rhône. It is therefore more difficult to market and sell the wine. Because of this some of the treasures of the "region" are well hidden and quite often only wine enthusiasts know the names. I was with my sister and brother-in-law and luckily they are open minded enough to give the lesser known wines a try and buy them.
The Côtes du Brulhois vineyards are situated to the south of Agen on both sides of the Garonne river. It is a tiny appellation almost as small as that of Irouléguy. The style of the red wines is more akin to Bordeaux but perhaps a little more "rustic" in the best sense of the word. It is an up and coming appellation and I could not resist a visit to this stand. These wines are becoming finer and more subtle - so watch out Bordeaux.
The next day it was time to pick up the wine we had bought but not before tasting some 2010 Vouvray Sec and some Vouvray Pagus 2010 and 2009 mousseux or sparkling wine. These wines are excellent and reflect the style of Vouvray. Domaine de Vodanis use organic farming techniques.
My wife could not resist a final taste of Champagne and I am glad I was with her. We tasted the NV Brut Empreinte Premier Cru. This wine is fermented in oak casks and is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. It is brilliant Champagne which merits grand cru status. It is as good as any Champagne that I have ever tasted and I have tasted a lot of champagne from the brand name houses and grower producers.
We spent a very happy time tasting the wines of the independent winemakers of France. In the afternoon the gigantic hall got a little bit crowded and the facilities were stretched to their limit. To really take the time to taste the wine, take notes and talk to the producers you need to go to a smaller tasting.
There are many advantages to going to this sort of show, however:
You get to meet more down to earth people,
You can "travel" across all of the regions of France to make comparisons between the styles of wine,
You can find and taste wines which you did not know existed and just by chance,
Above all, you can taste some great wines and buy them at reasonable prices.
All in all this was a great success.
Vignerons Indepéndants de France
The Independent Winemakers of France or Vignerons Indépendants de France was incorporated in Paris in 1978. It protects and promotes independent wine makers. Included in the charter for the winemakers is the will to:
respect their "terroir",
grow and work their own vines,
harvest their own vines,
to produce their own wine,
bottle the wine on their own premises,
market their products
respect wine making traditions,
take pleasure in the presentation of the fruits of their work by encouraging the public to visit their premises and taste the wine.
http://www.vigneron-independant.com/
"Terroir"
The concept of "terroir" is not that difficult to understand; it means a native tang. A wine that has a "goût de terroir" reflects the particular taste of the region. The soil, geology, climate, weather, wine growing and wine making techniques all have a bearing on the character of the wine. Some makers even claim that the culture of the region also has a bearing and who I am to disagree with that.
The concept of "terroir" is not limited to France and even shows up in Australia where high quality winemakers have always taken the soil, climate and weather into account in their wine making practises.
If the concept of "terroir" is neglected, however, we will end up drinking bland, bulk produced wine which is lacking in character and individuality. Such wines are OK for a party or barbecue or sloshing back at home in front of the TV but if you want a wine which goes with a particular food or for a special occasion then you need to look for a wine with a "goût de terroir".
Why Drink their wines
The Independent Winemakers form the backbone of quality wine production. Because, they are not linked to large co-operatives or bulk wine producers they can concentrate on their own product, market and livelihood. They are not beholden to shareholders and are not obliged to maximise the return on investment or profitability to the detriment of the quality of their wine.
The top brand names of France, particularly of Champagne, Bordeaux, and Burgundy are very expensive. Some of these wines are only bought by investors and their price is now so high that they are inaccessible to ordinary folk who will never get to drink them.
There is no need to worry, however, most of the Independent Winemakers make wine which tastes just as good as the top brand names even if the wine does not keep as long. In case of Champagne, I find the taste and quality of the wine from the good growers and makers often exceeds that of the top brand names who blend their products from different vineyards and areas.
The Independent Winemakers represent exceptional value for money; high quality wines at reasonable prices. So, it is among these producers that the wine enthusiast can find wine of individual character and high quality. The bulk wine market cannot do this.
There is room for all wine producers and there is no need to disparage bulk wine makers from any region or country and I drink these wines myself. They are there for when you just want to drink acceptable quality wine without worrying about where it comes from. But if you want something a little bit different then the Independent Winemakers are the people to look for.
The Wine Fair
Lille is a good place for a wine fair. The city itself has some fine architecture and a comfortable feel about it. The food is very good and there is a brewing tradition so some of the cuisine is based on beer. It is easy to get here from Britain, Belgium, Holland and Northern Germany.
There were 578 vignerons and thousands of individual tasters and buyers along with a good number of buyers from the wine trade. With such a huge numbers of exhibitors and so many visitors it was sometimes difficult to strike up a conversation with the producer. The Champagne stands were particularly busy. I quickly gave up taking notes and just enjoyed the occasion. Individual wine tasting invitations are better if you want to take notes.
I did not spot any Masters of Wine or pundits with score cards. Who wants to score wines anyway and how can you possibly say that one wine is 19 out of 20 and another 18? It is a numbers game which plays into the hands of investment wine makers. At this wine fair you were mixing with down to earth people who just want to enjoy making or drinking good wine.
We spent the whole of Sunday and Monday morning at the Fair which had plenty of regional food to eat and buy and the facilities were good but a little bit stretched. As per usual, I spat out most of the wine that I tasted to remain sober but sometimes I found it difficult not to swallow the Champagne - for some reason.
And now let's look at some of the producers and their wine.
Domaine de La Cune - Loire Valley
We attended the wine fair courtesy of Jean-Luc and Jean-Albert Mary. They are members of 3D wines and my sister and brother in law are one of their customers. I have already written about how good I think their wines are and we have a case of their 2010 Saumur-Champigny Rouge waiting to be drunk. You must also try their Crémant de Loire.
I like the attitude of this Domaine; they are not frightened to use science and technology to improve results without forgetting about wine making tradition. Their wines are very good quality and very good value for money. I would be prepared to pay more for them. This is wine making at its best.
This time we tasted their white wines: the Saumur Cuvée Tradition 2011 and the Cuvée La Favorite 2011. Both wines are based on Chenin Blanc and are light to medium bodied with a crisp but well integrated acidity. They have all the fresh green fruit and tangy flavours that I would expect from a Saumur Blanc and their style is easily recognised. I preferred the La Favorite which had more concentrated fruit flavours.
I recommend that you drink them young. They would go particularly well with fish. 2012 was not a good vintage in northern France so I wish them the best of luck. A visit to this stand stood us in good stead for the rest of the tasting. It was a very good start and put me in a really good mood.
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/3d-wines-saumur-champigny-2009-domaine.html
http://www.3dwines.com/french/loire/domaine-de-la-cune.html
Château de Roquebrune - Lalande de Pomerol
In a few steps you could travel south from the Loire to the Bordeaux region. The name Château de Roquebrune brought back memories of a visit to the Cave de Roquebrun in the Languedoc. Cave de Roqubrun produces some of the highest quality wine of St Chinian. Chateau de Roquebrune matches its quality if not its style. Not that my observations would cut any ice with the Libournais.
We tasted the 2007 red and the 2009 "Cuvée Reine" these are both excellent wines which are typical of the Lalande de Pomerol. They are full of red fruits with soft tannin and a medium to full body. 2009 was an excellent vintage and the "Cuvée Reine" is a particularly fine example. The wine had all the lively and concentrated flavours and complexity that I would expect from a very good wine. The flavour lingered long on the palate.
This wine has an individual character and I could have quite happily supped a bottle there and then. It is made predominantly from the Merlot grape so it can be drunk young but I am certain you could keep this wine for a good number of years to improve in the bottle.
The vines are grown on sand and gravel soils which are almost perfect for the growth of the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes which make up the blend.
As chance would have it, this was the only Bordeaux wine that I tasted but I did not go far wrong. This wine is worth searching for.
http://www.chateauderoquebrune-wine.co.uk/wine-presentation.htm
Château les Marnières Pécharmant - The South West Region
I very rarely see Pécharmant on sale in England ,if ever, so I was attracted to this stand. I was not disappointed. Pécharmant is the grand cru for the red wine of the Bergerac region. It is made in similar style to Bergerac reds but the wines are more concentrated and complex and have more tannin will allows them to age for longer: up to ten years or more.
Château les Marnières is a classic example and although the 2010 Pécharmant can be drunk now it should improve in the bottle for several years. The quality of this wine can easily compete with its better known cousins in Bordeaux. It also has some Malbec blended into add some tannin structure and intense ruby colour. This Pécharmant is one of the best I have tasted and is exceptional value for money. Try some if you can find it.
Château les Marnières also produce Bergerac red and dry white and Monbazillac. We tasted the Monbazillac 2010 "Les Nobles Fruits" this wine is also excellent. It is produced from grapes exposed to "noble rot" which concentrates the sugars in the grapes to produce a sweet wine in the style of Sauternes. This wine was full of the flavour of fruit confit and citrus fruits and, of course, honey. Another wine which is good value for money.
This was one of my favourite stands. In my mind, Pécharmant and Monbazillac are under-rated stars. They both have the goût de terroir to complement the wonderful cuisine of the Périgord.
http://www.chateaulesmarnieres24.fr/vin-rouge-du-sud-ouest-situe-pecharmant.html
http://www.chateaulesmarnieres.com/produits/pecharmant-2010-fut-de-chene
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noble_rot
http://www.terroir-france.com/region/southwest_monbazillac.htm
http://www.pays-de-bergerac.com/english/wine/index_pecharmant.asp
Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge - Languedoc
I was pleasant surprised to see this wine here. Mas de Daumas Gassac rouge is made in a Medoc style primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Because the blend of grapes does not fit into the appellation rules the wine is only granted Indication Géographique Protégée status. However, this wine has all the quality of a Bordeaux or Bourgogne Grand Cru.
The vineyard is situated in the Pays d'Hérault north west of Montpellier and in the Gassac valley. The special soil here is made up of calcareous limestone grèzes mixed with red powder earth derived from the ice age. The soil combined with the micro-climate of the valley perfectly suits the growth of high quality grapes which are raised according to organic standards.
We tasted the 2010 Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge. This wine is of outstanding quality but it is still a little closed up. To appreciate it at its best it needs to be allowed to develop in the bottle for much longer. After five years the wine should be drunk with food and decanted an hour or two before you dine. It will be full of concentrated and complex red and stone fruit flavours which will charm you.
The wine will develop in the bottle further for another 20 years or so. Why not buy two bottles? Keep one for five years and the other for twenty if you can resist it. The wine is expensive but not exorbitant. Buy it to savour on a special occasion.
The circumstances of the tasting did not do justice to the wine as it is best appreciated in private with good friends over dinner. However, it was a treat to both see it and taste it.
http://www.daumas-gassac.com/Mas_de_Daumas_Gassac_Rouge-p-50-c-34_35.html
http://www.robersonwine.com/shop/mas-de-daumas-gassac-rouge-2008
Domaine Mourguy -Irouléguy -The South West Region
The South West Region is diverse and fragmented and does not have a specific identity of its own such as the Côtes du Rhône. It is therefore more difficult to market and sell the wine. Because of this some of the treasures of the "region" are well hidden and quite often only wine enthusiasts know the names. I was with my sister and brother-in-law and luckily they are open minded enough to give the lesser known wines a try and buy them.
The Irouléguy vineyards are situated in the Northern Basque country not far from the Spanish border. They only occupy 210 hectares which is only a tiny amount of space. The Basque people are renowned for their independent spirit, their individuality and their special language. This is, of course reflected, in the pride of their culture and their wine. The Basque country is certainly worth visiting on both sides of the border.
In the far South West the Irouléguy vineyards enjoy a maritime and montane climate. There is plenty of rain in the winter and spring and ample sunshine in the summer and autumn to develop and harvest the grapes. The mountain slopes and terraces also protect the vines from being damaged by the strong south westerly gales of the Atlantic.
Basque farmers rear a lot of sheep and pigs and the spiciness of the Irouléguy red and rosé wines go really well with spicy sausages, ham, game and sheep's milk cheeses. Domaine Mourguy produces Irouléguy red and rosé and they are both very good wines which reflect the goût de terroir of the area.
The 2010 and 2011 red wines are deep purple in colour and have a strong structure derived from the Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon blend. They are matured in oak barrels and they are full of red and stone fruit flavour and they will certainly age well.
The Basques are also seafarers so what better wine to go with fish than Irouléguy blanc.
We also tasted a well rounded 2011 rosé which I am sure would be a good aperitif in the summer but would also go down well with food. Once again it is difficult to find these wines in England and I have not seen them very often on French supermarket shelves but they worth searching for.
Domaine de Pountet Côtes du Brulhois - The South West Region
I have never come across Domaine de Pountet Côtes du Brulhois before but I was certainly impressed with their 2009 L'Horloge. It is made from Malbec and is deep purple in colour with a strong taste of blackcurrents and stone fruits. It is complex and concentrated with a strong tannic structure. It is not ready for drinking yet.
The vineyard is situated on the village of Saint Cirice and is composed of gravelly, calcareous soil on south west facing slopes. The climate is similar to that of the Bordeaux region but because it is further in land it is more continental in aspect.
Some wine writers turn theirs noses up at the thought of Brulhois wines but do not be put off if you read any criticism of this Domain as their wines are high class. I bought half a case of this wine even though I have not got much more storage space at home. The 2009 L'Horloge will be kept for five years or more to improve in the bottle. My brother-in-law was sufficiently impressed to buy half a case of the 2008.
This wine is difficult to find so if you see it snap it up. At 86.40 Euros for half a case it 's a bargain and it puts some Bordeaux wines to shame as far as value for money is concerned.
http://www.jurancon-cauhape.com/
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/tour-of-france.html
Domaine de la Guicheharde Côtes du Rhône
This domaine is located in the hamlet of Derboux near Mondragon in the Vaucluse. The Domaine is starting to practice bio-dynamic farming techniques according to the standards of Rudolf Steiner and Maria Thun. This form of agriculture involves planting according to the phases of the moon and using cow dung contained in cows' horns to fertilise the soil.
During my conversations I forget the word for cow dung - la bouse de vache- and used the more crude French- merde de vache. The producer got my drift and we started talking about Rudolf Steiner techniques. I am of scientific mind and I simply do not believe in the "mysticism" and superstition involved. However, fertilising the soil with horse and cow manure has been practiced for centuries and it works.
There can be no harm in working in harmony with nature and the positive aspects of this benefit humans and the planet as a whole. However, I cannot accept the mysticism surrounding all this from an intellectual point of view.
http://www.biodynamie-services.fr/preparations-biodynamiques/compost-bouse-maria-thun-cbmt.php
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/9146710/Maria-Thun.html
Some wine experts believe that it is best to taste wine according to the phases of the moon. This must be hogwash. There are a number of other variables to be considered such as temperature, humidity, oxidation of the wine or contamination, odours in the room or even variations in your mood or senses before we take into account the phase of the moon. Where is the evidence? I am sure no-one buying at the wine fair had any idea what phase of the moon we were tasting in.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/7676520/Does-the-moon-affect-how-a-wine-tastes.html
Anyway does the wine taste any better? Domaine de la Guicheharde produces excellent Côtes du Rhône red and my brother in law was impressed enough to buy a case of the 2011. It is high quality wine but I have tasted many Côtes du Rhône wines which are just as good even though they were not produced by bio-dynamic techniques.
Perhaps, the advantages come from working with growing techniques which use natural fertilisers and pesticides etc. rather than the artificial products of industrialised farming. Perhaps, bio-dynamic farmers just care more about their vines and this is reflected in the quality of the wine. I believe this, rather than superstition, improves the quality of the finished product.
See my blog here: http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/natural-wine.html
You may decide that natural wine is better for you after all.
http://www.domaine-guicharde.com/
http://www.biodynamie-services.fr/preparations-biodynamiques/compost-bouse-maria-thun-cbmt.php
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/9146710/Maria-Thun.html
Christophe Ferrari Domaine St Germain, Irancy - The Yonne valley Burgundy
My wife's father was born in the Yonne valley, not far from Chablis, so we had to taste some Irancy. Christophe Ferrari is the most prestigious producer here. Irancy is one of my favourite wines; it is full of cherry fruit flavour with a goût de terroir associated with the Kimmeridgian soil and the northern climate of the area.
Alain Mathias's Epineuil is fantastic; it is full of cherry and red fruit flavours with a mineral edge. It is light and elegant. It will keep and improve in the bottle for five years or so. It is also very difficult to obtain in the UK and many retailers and wine bar staff have never heard of the wine let alone Alain Mathias. It is better to contact the suppliers directly or better still pay a visit to Tonnerre as the town needs all the revenue it can get.
The tasting was getting better and better or was it because I was tempted to swallow the wine rather than spit it. It was time for lunch but this time I drank no wine with my oysters - a rare occasion indeed.
http://www.pountet.com/wine-brulhois-pountet.asp
Champagne Gilbert Jacquesson
All of the Champagne stands were getting very busy, perhaps it was because it was getting very close to Christmas and Champagne is everyone's favourite wine. Champagne Gilbert Jacquesson is produced in the village of Troissy not far from Châtillon-sur-Marne on the left bank of the Marne river. Troissy is not a particulry renowned village and does not lay claim to premier cru or grand cru status.
The wine is excellent, however. We tasted the Non-Vintage (NV) Brut Tradition which is made exclusively from Pinot Meunier grapes and the NV Brut Sélection which is made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Both wines were typical of the area and I particularly appreciated the Brut Sélection which had a savoury taste alongside the fruit aromas. Surely, this Champagne would be great with a hearty breakfast if you can stomach alcohol before lunch which I cannot.
The Jacquesson vineyard is not immediately situated on the chalk strata which are starting to dip here so the soil is composed mostly of clay and sand. But the influence of the chalk from deeper strata must still be there. To me the wine tastes just as good as a premier cru.
I prefer the taste of this champagne to the more international and blander blends of the negociants and the Champagne houses. This is because Gilbert Jaquesson makes his own Champagne from his own grapes with exceptional care. It is well recommended.
http://www.champagnegilbertjacquesson.com/ElementsRubrique.aspx?SITE=B426&RUB=1&MP_SS_RUB=ELEM&MP_ELT=DETAI&PAGE=1
Champagne Etienne Doué - Montgueux
My wife is from Troyes so she sought out this Champagne which is produced in the village of Montgueux in the Aube department not far from Troyes. Montgueux is a charming village and the vineyards sit on top of the hill facing south east.
The soil here overlays seams of chalk and is similar to the soil in some of the top villages further north near Epernay and Reims. There is no reason why they cannot make the best Champagne as the the climate is also not very much different to that further north. The Champagne is, however, not very well renowned, especially with some the local people who disparage the Champagne as being green.
My wife managed to inveigle her way through the crowds of people and we managed to talk to the producer. The first wine that we tasted the NV Cuvée Sélection did taste a little green or acidic but it was not in the least bit unpleasant and you may find that this type of wine suits your palate.
The second that we tried was the NV Cuvé Tradition and this was another level up. It was richer and had more finesse just like its cousins from further north. This suited my palate very well and the next time I am in Troyes I shall buy some. Montgueux is well worth visiting if your are in the Troyes area and the wines from this pleasant hillside location are improving all the time.
http://www.champagneetiennedoue.com/index.php
http://en.db-city.com/France--Champagne-Ardenne--Aube--Montgueux
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/trip-to-troyes.html
Champagne Gilbert Jacquesson
All of the Champagne stands were getting very busy, perhaps it was because it was getting very close to Christmas and Champagne is everyone's favourite wine. Champagne Gilbert Jacquesson is produced in the village of Troissy not far from Châtillon-sur-Marne on the left bank of the Marne river. Troissy is not a particulry renowned village and does not lay claim to premier cru or grand cru status.
The wine is excellent, however. We tasted the Non-Vintage (NV) Brut Tradition which is made exclusively from Pinot Meunier grapes and the NV Brut Sélection which is made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Both wines were typical of the area and I particularly appreciated the Brut Sélection which had a savoury taste alongside the fruit aromas. Surely, this Champagne would be great with a hearty breakfast if you can stomach alcohol before lunch which I cannot.
The Jacquesson vineyard is not immediately situated on the chalk strata which are starting to dip here so the soil is composed mostly of clay and sand. But the influence of the chalk from deeper strata must still be there. To me the wine tastes just as good as a premier cru.
I prefer the taste of this champagne to the more international and blander blends of the negociants and the Champagne houses. This is because Gilbert Jaquesson makes his own Champagne from his own grapes with exceptional care. It is well recommended.
http://www.champagnegilbertjacquesson.com/ElementsRubrique.aspx?SITE=B426&RUB=1&MP_SS_RUB=ELEM&MP_ELT=DETAI&PAGE=1
Champagne Etienne Doué - Montgueux
My wife is from Troyes so she sought out this Champagne which is produced in the village of Montgueux in the Aube department not far from Troyes. Montgueux is a charming village and the vineyards sit on top of the hill facing south east.
The soil here overlays seams of chalk and is similar to the soil in some of the top villages further north near Epernay and Reims. There is no reason why they cannot make the best Champagne as the the climate is also not very much different to that further north. The Champagne is, however, not very well renowned, especially with some the local people who disparage the Champagne as being green.
My wife managed to inveigle her way through the crowds of people and we managed to talk to the producer. The first wine that we tasted the NV Cuvée Sélection did taste a little green or acidic but it was not in the least bit unpleasant and you may find that this type of wine suits your palate.
The second that we tried was the NV Cuvé Tradition and this was another level up. It was richer and had more finesse just like its cousins from further north. This suited my palate very well and the next time I am in Troyes I shall buy some. Montgueux is well worth visiting if your are in the Troyes area and the wines from this pleasant hillside location are improving all the time.
http://www.champagneetiennedoue.com/index.php
http://en.db-city.com/France--Champagne-Ardenne--Aube--Montgueux
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/trip-to-troyes.html
Other Champagnes
Even though the activity around the Champagne stands was getting frenetic, my wife was determined to taste. It was now getting almost impossible to strike up any sort of conversation with the producers, who of course, made their own Champagne from their own grapes.
The best we could do was to push our glasses somewhere near the counter. Our glasses were obliging filled with some sparkling nectar from the following suppliers. They we all NV Brut Champagnes and they tasted jolly good too:
Champagne Gaidoz-Forget, Ludes-Premier Cru NV from the Montagne de Reims;
http://www.champagne-gaidoz-forget.com/
Champagne Henri Chauvet, Rilly la Montagne Premier Cru NV from the Montagne de Reims;
http://www.champagne-chauvet.com/index.htm
Champagne Dhondt-Grellet, Flavigny from the Côte des Blancs;
http://www.dhondt-grellet.com/fr/
Champagne Liébart-Régnier, Baslieux sous Chatillon from the Montagne de Reims;
These producers are now trying out organic farming methods.
http://www.champagne-liebart-regnier.com/
We had had enough of the scramble for Chamapagne so we headed South West again.
Domaine Cauhapé - Jurançon - The South West Region
The Jurançon moelleux dessert wines from Domaine Cauhapé are simply superb. The vineyards are situated in the foothills of the Pyrenees just west of Pau. The summers are hot here but the hot summer sun is also moderated by the maritime influence of the Atlantic ocean. The climate and weather combined with the clay and flint stone soil provide some of the best growing conditions.
Even though the activity around the Champagne stands was getting frenetic, my wife was determined to taste. It was now getting almost impossible to strike up any sort of conversation with the producers, who of course, made their own Champagne from their own grapes.
The best we could do was to push our glasses somewhere near the counter. Our glasses were obliging filled with some sparkling nectar from the following suppliers. They we all NV Brut Champagnes and they tasted jolly good too:
Champagne Gaidoz-Forget, Ludes-Premier Cru NV from the Montagne de Reims;
http://www.champagne-gaidoz-forget.com/
Champagne Henri Chauvet, Rilly la Montagne Premier Cru NV from the Montagne de Reims;
http://www.champagne-chauvet.com/index.htm
Champagne Dhondt-Grellet, Flavigny from the Côte des Blancs;
http://www.dhondt-grellet.com/fr/
Champagne Liébart-Régnier, Baslieux sous Chatillon from the Montagne de Reims;
These producers are now trying out organic farming methods.
http://www.champagne-liebart-regnier.com/
We had had enough of the scramble for Chamapagne so we headed South West again.
Domaine Cauhapé - Jurançon - The South West Region
The Jurançon moelleux dessert wines from Domaine Cauhapé are simply superb. The vineyards are situated in the foothills of the Pyrenees just west of Pau. The summers are hot here but the hot summer sun is also moderated by the maritime influence of the Atlantic ocean. The climate and weather combined with the clay and flint stone soil provide some of the best growing conditions.
I bought a half case of the 2011 Ballet d'Octobre; produced primarily from late harvested petit maseng grapes. The wine will keep for several years and it is simply irresistible with foie gras, salty cheeses and fruit desserts which it matches perfectly.
The range of flavours in good Jurançon moelleux wines is simply amazing and there is a perfect balance between the acidity and sweetness on the palate. They are also very good as an apéritif served chilled but not cold.
Ballet d'Octobre is a classic example of one of the best Jurançon wines. The Domaine also makes very good Jurançon Sec.
http://www.jurancon-cauhape.com/
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/tour-of-france.html
Domaine de la Guicheharde Côtes du Rhône
This domaine is located in the hamlet of Derboux near Mondragon in the Vaucluse. The Domaine is starting to practice bio-dynamic farming techniques according to the standards of Rudolf Steiner and Maria Thun. This form of agriculture involves planting according to the phases of the moon and using cow dung contained in cows' horns to fertilise the soil.
During my conversations I forget the word for cow dung - la bouse de vache- and used the more crude French- merde de vache. The producer got my drift and we started talking about Rudolf Steiner techniques. I am of scientific mind and I simply do not believe in the "mysticism" and superstition involved. However, fertilising the soil with horse and cow manure has been practiced for centuries and it works.
There can be no harm in working in harmony with nature and the positive aspects of this benefit humans and the planet as a whole. However, I cannot accept the mysticism surrounding all this from an intellectual point of view.
http://www.biodynamie-services.fr/preparations-biodynamiques/compost-bouse-maria-thun-cbmt.php
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/9146710/Maria-Thun.html
Some wine experts believe that it is best to taste wine according to the phases of the moon. This must be hogwash. There are a number of other variables to be considered such as temperature, humidity, oxidation of the wine or contamination, odours in the room or even variations in your mood or senses before we take into account the phase of the moon. Where is the evidence? I am sure no-one buying at the wine fair had any idea what phase of the moon we were tasting in.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/7676520/Does-the-moon-affect-how-a-wine-tastes.html
Anyway does the wine taste any better? Domaine de la Guicheharde produces excellent Côtes du Rhône red and my brother in law was impressed enough to buy a case of the 2011. It is high quality wine but I have tasted many Côtes du Rhône wines which are just as good even though they were not produced by bio-dynamic techniques.
Perhaps, the advantages come from working with growing techniques which use natural fertilisers and pesticides etc. rather than the artificial products of industrialised farming. Perhaps, bio-dynamic farmers just care more about their vines and this is reflected in the quality of the wine. I believe this, rather than superstition, improves the quality of the finished product.
See my blog here: http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/natural-wine.html
You may decide that natural wine is better for you after all.
http://www.domaine-guicharde.com/
http://www.biodynamie-services.fr/preparations-biodynamiques/compost-bouse-maria-thun-cbmt.php
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/9146710/Maria-Thun.html
Christophe Ferrari Domaine St Germain, Irancy - The Yonne valley Burgundy
My wife's father was born in the Yonne valley, not far from Chablis, so we had to taste some Irancy. Christophe Ferrari is the most prestigious producer here. Irancy is one of my favourite wines; it is full of cherry fruit flavour with a goût de terroir associated with the Kimmeridgian soil and the northern climate of the area.
The tasting circumstances were not very good especially for the 2009 red. This wine needs to be kept for a number of years to develop and improve in the bottle and the wine goes best with food. I recommend pheasant. There are cherries and red fruits galore with a mineral edge. The wine is elegant. Irancy is difficult to obtain in even in the UK so a visit to the area is essential.
Why not go there? It is not that far from Calais. The Domaine also produces Chablis but I did not taste any at the show. If you want to buy these wines anywhere other than France it might be best to contact the Domaine directly; they speak English. You will not be disappointed.
http://www.irancy-ferrari.com/index.php
http://www.irancy.org/vigneron.php?id_vigneron=7
http://www.redrobewines.co.uk/Irancy.htm
Domaine Alain Mathias Epineuil
Epineuil is another village in the department of the Yonne. It is located not far from Tonnerre alongside the banks of the Armançon river. The terrain is based on Kimmeridgian outcrops so the soil, the microclimate and the Pinot Noir grapes render a style of red wine which is similar to Irancy. The quality of the wine is similar and I cannot decide which wine I prefer but it is probably the Epineuil. Once again this wine is for food.
http://www.irancy-ferrari.com/index.php
http://www.irancy.org/vigneron.php?id_vigneron=7
http://www.redrobewines.co.uk/Irancy.htm
Domaine Alain Mathias Epineuil
Epineuil is another village in the department of the Yonne. It is located not far from Tonnerre alongside the banks of the Armançon river. The terrain is based on Kimmeridgian outcrops so the soil, the microclimate and the Pinot Noir grapes render a style of red wine which is similar to Irancy. The quality of the wine is similar and I cannot decide which wine I prefer but it is probably the Epineuil. Once again this wine is for food.
It is worth visiting the Yonne. The wine growers here are isolated form the rest of Burgundy. The people are not as rich and do not feel that the world owes them a living and this is reflected in the quality of the wine and the very good value for money it provides. I am glad that I found Domaine Alain Mathias here. They also produce a very good Chablis.
Domaine de Vodanis Vouvray The Loire Valley
François Gilet and Nicolas Darracq are making very good wines which are full of fruit flavour. They are taking exceptional care to make good wine. I cannot say much more than these wines are fantastic.
http://www.sherbrookecellars.com/wine-portfolio/france/loire/domaine-de-vodanis/
http://massanois.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Vod_VouvrayBrut_TechSheet.pdf
http://massanois.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Vod_VouvrayBrut_TechSheet.pdf
Champagne René Geoffroy
We spoke to some Belgian customers who come back year after year to buy it and they could not speak more highly of this producer.
This Empreinte Premier Cru would be an excellent aperitif but why not drink it with oysters.
We also went away with some NV Coteaux Champenois Cumières Rouge traditionnel (without bubbles) made from Pinot Noir; another wine to be savoured with food.
Champagne René Geoffroy is available from a number of suppliers across the globe but if you are nearby why not pay them a visit. Ay is not far from Hautvillers where Dom Pérignon is buried.
The taste of this outstanding Champagne was a superb way to round off our visit.
In conclusion
We spent a very happy time tasting the wines of the independent winemakers of France. In the afternoon the gigantic hall got a little bit crowded and the facilities were stretched to their limit. To really take the time to taste the wine, take notes and talk to the producers you need to go to a smaller tasting.
There are many advantages to going to this sort of show, however:
You get to meet more down to earth people,
You can "travel" across all of the regions of France to make comparisons between the styles of wine,
You can find and taste wines which you did not know existed and just by chance,
Above all, you can taste some great wines and buy them at reasonable prices.
All in all this was a great success.
Wednesday 14 November 2012
Leitz 2011 Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Kabinett Riesling
If, it is difficult to understand the labels on Italian wines then
it is even more difficult to understand German ones. The classification is very
hard to understand. No wonder they identify the wine with the grape. Rest assured that
this wine is made by one of the top producers in the Rheingau which is one of
Germany's top regions.
The Riesling grape variety is world renowned and it is in the Rheingau, the Rheinpfalz, Rheinhessen and Alsace (France) where it expresses itself best.
The Riesling grape variety is world renowned and it is in the Rheingau, the Rheinpfalz, Rheinhessen and Alsace (France) where it expresses itself best.
The Rosengarten vineyard
is situated in the town of Rüdesheim itself on the right bank of
the Rhine not far from the most prestigious commune of Johannisberg.
Johannes Leitz is one of the top producers. This Riesling is a Kabinett
Prädikatswein white wine as described in the postscript.
The soil, on the
south facing slopes of the Rheingau, is slate based which provides good
drainage. Whilst the soil is favourable for viticulture, the climate is not as
well suited since the vineyards are situated just short of 50 degrees north. The
cooler climate usually results in wines which are not so strong in alcohol and
this Riesling at 9.5 % is no exception: not that I noticed it.
We drank the wine
with a shellfish starter and it went exceptionally well with it. It is off dry
and has a mouth watering and fresh acidity which is well integrated into the
light body of the wine. It has complex and concentrated flavours of peaches and apricots, just as it says on the bottle; but with citrus fruits and spice. It has a
long length and the taste remains on the palate for a long time after swallowing.
Apart from going
well with food, I am certain that it would be a very good aperitif as it is
light in alcohol but strong in fresh fruit flavours with mouth watering
acidity. This fine product from Leitz has all the qualities of an outstanding wine. I recommend
that you drink it young.
We bought it at Waitrose for £9.50 a bottle and I think that it
represents very good value for money. I would be prepared to pay more. The Waitrose buyers have found an exceptional wine for
the money.
Please try some
good quality German wines which have the actual name of the vineyard on the
label. I am certain that you will be pleasantly surprised. Leitz 2011 Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Kabinett Riesling
is a good starting point.
Postscript
You may be
wondering what Prädikatswein and Kabinett mean? Well, Prädikatswein has
a similar quality level to the French Appellation d’Origin Protegée or Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée.
Kabinett indicates
a level of sweetness for a Prädikatswein and these wines are off-dry. The
level of sweetness increases up the scale through Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese (Dried
grape selection).
Are you confused?
This form of classification alongside the naming convention is very
off-putting. So it is no wonder that restaurants are reluctant to put German
wines on their lists and wine merchants are reluctant to stock their shelves
with them.
Trockenbeerenauslese,
from a good producer such as Leitz, is one of the most prestigious and
expensive German wines. It is sweet enough to be described as luscious and the
range of flavours is nothing short of amazing.
Tuesday 13 November 2012
Château Chicane 1994 AC Graves Red
It was my wedding anniversary last week and after eighteen years
of happy married life what better way to celebrate than to open a bottle of
1994 Graves over a meal with some friends. I was given this bottle by a friend
who had obviously kept it for many years and I was not certain how well it
would have matured and how it had been kept. I had a reserve bottle just in
case.
This wine is from
the Graves area of Bordeaux. The vineyard is situated in the Toulenne commune
and was produced by the Coste family. A nephew, François Gauthier, now runs the
estate which is situated on the left bank of the Garonne very close to the
river.
Chateau Chicane is a typical example of the Graves appellation
which lies to the south of its more illustrious sister Pessac-Léognan. The soil
of Graves, which is composed of gravel, clay and sand, combined with the climate
and weather provides the perfect growing conditions for the vines.
The wine was
blended from some of the famous grapes of the region, Cabernet Sauvignon -
65%, Merlot - 30% and Malbec - 5 %. The Château only makes
red wine but other Châteaux in the area make both red and white.
During my
researches, on the internet, some wine websites claimed that the wine is not
very well renowned but in the area it is. Although there is very little
information about the wine on the web, it is written about in several of my
wine books.
I was not
expecting the wine to be at its best after 18 years. The label recommends
keeping it for a maximum ten. However, I decided to write a tasting note just
after I decanted the wine. The wine was fully developed and on the downward
slope and it was past its best. It had lost its fresh fruit character but had
matured to retain strong flavours of dried fruits. It had a slightly vegetal
aroma reminiscent of aged Burgundy.
My wife and I
enjoy the character of wines like this and it went down very well with a rib of
beef. The wine, however, was more than ready to be drunk and I do not think it
would last must longer. If the wine had retained a fresh fruit character
it would have tasted great.
It is well worth
keeping a wine of this quality for about ten years to give you an idea of how
good Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhône wines develop and mature in the
bottle. Good wines from the USA, Italy, Australia and South Africa will mature
similarly.
The 1988, which
was a better vintage than 1994, will set you back about 27 pounds a bottle if
you can still get it. I don’t think I would buy the 1994 even if I found it.
Tasting
Note:
Wine: Château Chicane 1994 AC
Graves Red
Tasted on: 10th November 2012
Appearance: A clear medium tawny colour. The
wine produces tears on the glass.
Nose: This wine is fully developed if not
over the hill. It is clean with an intense aroma of stewed plums, raisins,
spice, vanilla and the typical tobacco box aroma of Bordeaux.
Palate: It has medium body and softening tannins.
The medium acidity is well integrated into the body of the wine. It is dry with
concentrated and complex flavours of prunes, raisins and dried fruits. It has a
spicy flavour of marzipan, vanilla, cloves and vanilla. It has medium length.
It has a warm feel on the palate from its maturity rather than its alcohol
level which is medium (12%) from the label.
Conclusion: Although the wine is over the hill it has
aged quite gracefully just as I would have expected from a good quality
Bordeaux. It would have been at its peak about ten years ago. I would not
hesitate to try another bottle, if available, but not buy it.
Thursday 8 November 2012
Back to Le Troisième Panton Street London
A restaurant has to be really good, if not superb, for me to visit twice in one week. I was meeting a good friend and work colleague, Ernest, for lunch. What better than to book a table at Le Troisième. There is no way that I would go to this wine bar and restaurant without eating. The smell of the food sets my stomach rumbling.
As I said before this restaurant could almost be in France. It is not fine dining. The food is just like my wife and her sisters make. It is simply homely and delicious.
This time we ordered the food before the wine and we both selected the bœuf bourguignon. There was no Burgundy on the wine list so there probably wasn't any in the dish. We chose the next best wine Le Versant Pinot Noir 2010 Vin de Pays D'Oc (IGP). I was reluctant to try it at first as the South of France is usually too hot for Pinot Noir grapes and such wines usually taste ghastly. But the wine had won prizes.
I was prepared to give it a go as "Le Versant" means the slope of a hill so maybe the grapes were grown in a higher or cooler location. There was no information on the back label. We were not disappointed; the wine was full of red fruit flavours. There was no "jammyness" or harsh tannin. It was medium bodied and you could drink it on its own but of course it is best with food. It will probably keep for a few years but it is best drunk young.
In some ways it was like a New World Pinot Noir from New Zealand or Washington or Oregon states in the USA. These regions have the ideal climate to produce the some of the best "Pinot Noirs". The wines are blended with a small proportion of another grape variety and perhaps Le Versant is blended too.
Pinot Noir is grown all over the World but it expresses itself best in the Burgundy region of France where the calcareous marl soils and cool climate provide ideal growing conditions. Burgundy produces some of the finest wines red wines in the world. Le Versant cannot rival this but nevertheless it is a very good quality wine and I recommend it.
Le Versant is produced by the Vignobles de Foncalieu which is a prize winning co-operative based at Arzens in the Aude. There are hills around the area so I guess the wines come from a cooler location.
http://www.foncalieu.com/ and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arzens
The wine and the food were leading to further convesations about travelling and restaurants and we remembered some of the projects we had worked on, especially in Hamburg. Our team would initially find four or five good restaurants and stick to them. Two particularly good restaurants in Hamburg were the Vasco Da Gama and the Casa di Roma both on the Lange Reihi in the St Georg district.
I thought the fish in the Vasco Da Gama was fabulous when washed down with a bottle of
Alvarinho or Albariño white wine. The Vasco Da Gama was a little bit of Portugal in Hamburg and Le Troisième is certainly a little bit of France in London.
http://www.vasco-da-gama-hamburg.de/ and http://www.casadiroma.eu/.
The wine was fast running out but it was good enough to order another bottle with some French cheeses. After some dessert I had a shot of Armagnac and some coffee. It was great food and good wine in a superb restaurant and the conversation matched it. We had spent three hours dining and had drank plenty but left reasonably sober.
We had had a four course meal for two with two bottles of wine and two digestives and coffee for 100 pounds including a tip. That was not so heavy on the wallet for so much conviviality.
What a great way to pass a few hours on a Tuesday afternoon. Le Troisième, you must try it.
http://www.letroisieme.com/
PS/ you can buy Le Versant Pinot Noir here at Wine Discoveries who are a good independent supplier and they deserve all the support they can get. http://www.winediscoveries.co.uk/contact_01.php
As I said before this restaurant could almost be in France. It is not fine dining. The food is just like my wife and her sisters make. It is simply homely and delicious.
This time we ordered the food before the wine and we both selected the bœuf bourguignon. There was no Burgundy on the wine list so there probably wasn't any in the dish. We chose the next best wine Le Versant Pinot Noir 2010 Vin de Pays D'Oc (IGP). I was reluctant to try it at first as the South of France is usually too hot for Pinot Noir grapes and such wines usually taste ghastly. But the wine had won prizes.
I was prepared to give it a go as "Le Versant" means the slope of a hill so maybe the grapes were grown in a higher or cooler location. There was no information on the back label. We were not disappointed; the wine was full of red fruit flavours. There was no "jammyness" or harsh tannin. It was medium bodied and you could drink it on its own but of course it is best with food. It will probably keep for a few years but it is best drunk young.
In some ways it was like a New World Pinot Noir from New Zealand or Washington or Oregon states in the USA. These regions have the ideal climate to produce the some of the best "Pinot Noirs". The wines are blended with a small proportion of another grape variety and perhaps Le Versant is blended too.
Pinot Noir is grown all over the World but it expresses itself best in the Burgundy region of France where the calcareous marl soils and cool climate provide ideal growing conditions. Burgundy produces some of the finest wines red wines in the world. Le Versant cannot rival this but nevertheless it is a very good quality wine and I recommend it.
Le Versant is produced by the Vignobles de Foncalieu which is a prize winning co-operative based at Arzens in the Aude. There are hills around the area so I guess the wines come from a cooler location.
http://www.foncalieu.com/ and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arzens
The wine and the food were leading to further convesations about travelling and restaurants and we remembered some of the projects we had worked on, especially in Hamburg. Our team would initially find four or five good restaurants and stick to them. Two particularly good restaurants in Hamburg were the Vasco Da Gama and the Casa di Roma both on the Lange Reihi in the St Georg district.
I thought the fish in the Vasco Da Gama was fabulous when washed down with a bottle of
Alvarinho or Albariño white wine. The Vasco Da Gama was a little bit of Portugal in Hamburg and Le Troisième is certainly a little bit of France in London.
http://www.vasco-da-gama-hamburg.de/ and http://www.casadiroma.eu/.
The wine was fast running out but it was good enough to order another bottle with some French cheeses. After some dessert I had a shot of Armagnac and some coffee. It was great food and good wine in a superb restaurant and the conversation matched it. We had spent three hours dining and had drank plenty but left reasonably sober.
We had had a four course meal for two with two bottles of wine and two digestives and coffee for 100 pounds including a tip. That was not so heavy on the wallet for so much conviviality.
What a great way to pass a few hours on a Tuesday afternoon. Le Troisième, you must try it.
http://www.letroisieme.com/
PS/ you can buy Le Versant Pinot Noir here at Wine Discoveries who are a good independent supplier and they deserve all the support they can get. http://www.winediscoveries.co.uk/contact_01.php
Château Cadenette (Rouge) Costières de Nîmes 2011
I spotted this wine in Le Troisième wine bar and restaurant which is one of my favourites in London's West End. We struck up a conversation with the manager and discussed why such good wines from the
http://www.domaine-cadenette.fr/detail_produits.html/id/14
http://www.letroisieme.com/
Costières de Nîmes are not so popular. We decided that the name was difficult to remember and recognise and there is no varietal labelling. Please do not hesitate to try it because of its name.
We started drinking the wine before we ordered. Château Cadenette red is not a top wine but it is perfect to go with good French food. The taste is typical of the area. It has a concentrated and complex flavour of black and red fruits with a little hint of spice and liquorice. It is dry with well balanced tannins and acidity. The wine will keep for a few years but I think it is at its best drunk young.
The Domaine produces the wine from Syrah and Grenache grapes which are fermented separately and blended together after the winter. The Syrah adds the spicey aroma. In traditional French style there is no mention of the grapes used on the front label or the back one.
Costières de Nîmes is situated well to the east of the Languedoc-Rousillion. It borders on the Rhône delta and the Camargue. The soils here are alluvial and are embedded with pebbles. The soil helps prevent the vines from drying out in the summer. The pebbles store the hot summer sun to keep the vines warm overnight. The soil and climate here are perfect for the production of red wine. The Camargue has spectacular scenery it is well worth visiting.
The area also produces white and rosé, but I have never plucked up the courage to try the whites which do not have a good reputation.
You could almost be fooled into thinking that the restaurant was in France as the decor and ambiance are French. We had French diners behind us and the wine waiter was from the Basque country. My wife was trying to give me French grammar lessons; she must of thought she was back home. She ordered steak frites which she has never done in Britain before. I ordered Toulouse sausages and mash - well that sounds almost English.
The spiciness of the wine went perfectly with the Steak and the Bangers and mash. This was a perfect lunch.
You do not have to speak French to go here; the menu is in English and the staff all speak English fluently. There were also a good number of Londoners dining here before the theatre and making reservations for the evening.
The bill was reasonable and the wine and food were great. So afterwards, we went round the corner to Leicester Square to see the latest Bond film. They were serving Bollinger Special Cuvée in plastic glasses for ten pounds a shot. Bollinger in plastic glasses, how could they? We still could not resist and neither could lots of other people: they must have been making a fortune. The film was great and it actually had a story to it.
Whatever happened to the recession? We still went home with some money in our pocket with the courtesy of Le Troisième and Château Cadenette Rouge.
http://www.domaine-cadenette.fr/detail_produits.html/id/14
http://www.letroisieme.com/
Wednesday 7 November 2012
Rendezvous Brasserie
The Rendezvous is one of my favourite local restaurants. It is situated in Westerham which is a small town in Kent. The cuisine and wine is all French. I went there last week with my wife. We like it so much because of the good quality food and the exceptionally friendly service. We have never had any reason to complain despite eating there a good number of times.
The last time we were there I ordered an excellent starter of mushroom risotto and a main course of Boeuf Bourguignon which is one of my favourite dishes. My wife, Bernadette, ordered fish cakes.
http://www.cuisine-france.com/recipes/boeuf_bourguignon.htm
We washed this down with a half litre of Michel Chapoutier Côtes-du-Rhône red. This wine comes from one of the best producers in Southern France. It is full of flavour and the quality is second to none and his wine is reasonably priced. Chapoutier also produces organic wines. I could not recommend this wine more highly.
It goes down especially well with a dish such as Boeuf Bourguignon.
Whenever I go to the Rendezvous I cannot resist ordering this wine and so I order food to go with it. My wife has got a generous spirit and goes along with my wine choice even though she often eats fish.
Chapoutier wines are readily available in good wine merchants and supermarkets. Naturally their taste reflect the quality of the region.
http://rendezvous-brasserie.co.uk/
http://www.chapoutier.com/cotes-du-rhone,A-O-C-wine,cdr.html
Westerham is near Chartwell and the former home of Sir Winston Churchill. It must be time to to pull the cork on a bottle of Pol Roger.
http://www.polroger.co.uk/champagne/background/sir-winston-churchill/
The last time we were there I ordered an excellent starter of mushroom risotto and a main course of Boeuf Bourguignon which is one of my favourite dishes. My wife, Bernadette, ordered fish cakes.
http://www.cuisine-france.com/recipes/boeuf_bourguignon.htm
We washed this down with a half litre of Michel Chapoutier Côtes-du-Rhône red. This wine comes from one of the best producers in Southern France. It is full of flavour and the quality is second to none and his wine is reasonably priced. Chapoutier also produces organic wines. I could not recommend this wine more highly.
It goes down especially well with a dish such as Boeuf Bourguignon.
Whenever I go to the Rendezvous I cannot resist ordering this wine and so I order food to go with it. My wife has got a generous spirit and goes along with my wine choice even though she often eats fish.
Chapoutier wines are readily available in good wine merchants and supermarkets. Naturally their taste reflect the quality of the region.
http://rendezvous-brasserie.co.uk/
http://www.chapoutier.com/cotes-du-rhone,A-O-C-wine,cdr.html
Westerham is near Chartwell and the former home of Sir Winston Churchill. It must be time to to pull the cork on a bottle of Pol Roger.
http://www.polroger.co.uk/champagne/background/sir-winston-churchill/
Monday 5 November 2012
Two Countries And Two Different Styles
During the last week we have drunk two bottles of dry red wine which are from two of my favourite wine producing countries: France and Italy. The first wine was 2008 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits "Les Mouchottes" AC. The second was 2008 Domini Veneti Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Vigneti di Torbe from the Veneto.
I love the names of Italian wines almost as much as the wine itself. However, the complexity of the names and the appellation system is not so easily understood and this does not help the consumer. Soave which also comes from the Veneto region is a memorable name even if the wine is not so remarkable.
2008 "Les Mouchottes"
The wine is designed to go with food and we drank it with free range chicken. It will also go down well with game. It is light enough to drink on its own but it is better with food.
The name "Les Mouchottes" identifies the vineyard for a simple Appellation Contrôlée wine. Wine lovers usually use the phrase "lieu-dit" which literally translated from the French means a place or a hamlet if there are houses. The practice of using a "lieu-dit" is frequently used in Burgundy and Alsace.
The northern climate in Burgundy is semi-continental with hot summers and cold winters. The climate and the calcareous clay soils of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits perfectly suit the Pinot Noir grape used for the red wine. The climate and soil also suit the growth of the Chardonnay grape for whites.
The "Les Mouchottes" vineyard is located in the village of Villers-La-Faye which is not far from its more famous neighbours Nuits-St-Georges and Vosne Romanée. The vineyard has a commercial association with La Chablisienne the famous co-operative situated further north in Burgundy.
I have looked up the comments of other tasters on the internet and this wine is not rated too highly. I disagree with them. This wine actually tastes as if it comes from Burgundy and this is what distinguishes good wine from characterless dross. This is good quality wine which is typical of the region so if you do not like it then you do not like red Burgundy.
My wife agrees with me; her father was born near Chablis and we visit Burgundy regularly and drink the wine so often. We both recommend "Les Mouchottes". Majestic supply it at a reasonable price and as far as Burgundy is concerned it is great value for money.
http://www.chablisienne-com.blogspirit.com/
http://www.road-of-the-fine-burgundy-wines.com/tourism/villers-la-faye/36.html
http://www.burgundy-wines.fr/
2008 Domini Veneti Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Vigneti di Torbe
This wine is full bodied and has more tannin than the "Les Mouchottes": it is a much heavier and best with food. It has a much darker red colour. The wine has intense flavours of red and black fruits and spice. It also has a bitter sweet flavour on the palate which reflects the method of production. It is concentrated and has a complexity which is redolent of a good wine. It has long length.
This wine will keep for a number of years in a cellar. It is well structured for longevity.
Ripasso wines are double fermented. The original Valpolicella wine is "re-passed" over the lees of the grapes used for the production of Amarone which is a variation of Valpollicella but made exclusively from grapes dried on straw mats. The Ripasso technique induces a secondary fermentation which increases the alcoholic content of the wine and helps to extract more flavour from the grapes. This is why Ripasso has a bitter sweet edge.
Amarone is made almost exclusively from dried grapes but for Ripasso the proportion is lower - about 30%. This is why Ripasso is lighter than Amarone. Domini Veneti Ripasso is made from Corvina, Corcione and Rondella; grapes which suit the eocene marl soils which are typical of the Verona area.
Once again some of the reviews that I have read are un-favourable and once again I disagree. For me, this wine is easily identifiable as Ripasso and it is full of flavour without being cloying. It is very good quality wine from a good producer. It has its own unique character. Surely, this is what finding good wine is all about.
We drank the wine with a guinea fowl stew followed by some strong cheeses and it was the perfect accompaniment. Once again, I recommend that you to try it with strong tasting food if you are unfamiliar with "Ripasso Valpolicella ". Then you can find out what it is all about. You will be pleasantly surprised. It is quite expensive but worth paying the price to find a wine that has a special character.
http://www.veronissima.com/sito_inglese/html/wine_valpolicella-ripasso-ing.html
http://www.amarone.co.uk/
Conclusion
So there you have it; two wines which are made in completely different styles. They still have a few things in common, however. They both reflect the styles of their area of origin. It is relatively easy to recognise where they come from. They are of good quality and they both go well with food. They both have the hallmarks of good wine.
I love the names of Italian wines almost as much as the wine itself. However, the complexity of the names and the appellation system is not so easily understood and this does not help the consumer. Soave which also comes from the Veneto region is a memorable name even if the wine is not so remarkable.
2008 "Les Mouchottes"
This wine is drinking well now and I do not believe that it will improve in the bottle for much longer. It is medium bodied with well integrated and light tannins and a well balanced acidity. It is typical of wines from the area with blackberry and cherry flavours on the palate. Burgundy reds are often described as elegant and who am I to disagree with this.
The wine is designed to go with food and we drank it with free range chicken. It will also go down well with game. It is light enough to drink on its own but it is better with food.
The name "Les Mouchottes" identifies the vineyard for a simple Appellation Contrôlée wine. Wine lovers usually use the phrase "lieu-dit" which literally translated from the French means a place or a hamlet if there are houses. The practice of using a "lieu-dit" is frequently used in Burgundy and Alsace.
The northern climate in Burgundy is semi-continental with hot summers and cold winters. The climate and the calcareous clay soils of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits perfectly suit the Pinot Noir grape used for the red wine. The climate and soil also suit the growth of the Chardonnay grape for whites.
The "Les Mouchottes" vineyard is located in the village of Villers-La-Faye which is not far from its more famous neighbours Nuits-St-Georges and Vosne Romanée. The vineyard has a commercial association with La Chablisienne the famous co-operative situated further north in Burgundy.
I have looked up the comments of other tasters on the internet and this wine is not rated too highly. I disagree with them. This wine actually tastes as if it comes from Burgundy and this is what distinguishes good wine from characterless dross. This is good quality wine which is typical of the region so if you do not like it then you do not like red Burgundy.
My wife agrees with me; her father was born near Chablis and we visit Burgundy regularly and drink the wine so often. We both recommend "Les Mouchottes". Majestic supply it at a reasonable price and as far as Burgundy is concerned it is great value for money.
http://www.chablisienne-com.blogspirit.com/
http://www.road-of-the-fine-burgundy-wines.com/tourism/villers-la-faye/36.html
http://www.burgundy-wines.fr/
2008 Domini Veneti Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Vigneti di Torbe
This wine is full bodied and has more tannin than the "Les Mouchottes": it is a much heavier and best with food. It has a much darker red colour. The wine has intense flavours of red and black fruits and spice. It also has a bitter sweet flavour on the palate which reflects the method of production. It is concentrated and has a complexity which is redolent of a good wine. It has long length.
This wine will keep for a number of years in a cellar. It is well structured for longevity.
Ripasso wines are double fermented. The original Valpolicella wine is "re-passed" over the lees of the grapes used for the production of Amarone which is a variation of Valpollicella but made exclusively from grapes dried on straw mats. The Ripasso technique induces a secondary fermentation which increases the alcoholic content of the wine and helps to extract more flavour from the grapes. This is why Ripasso has a bitter sweet edge.
Amarone is made almost exclusively from dried grapes but for Ripasso the proportion is lower - about 30%. This is why Ripasso is lighter than Amarone. Domini Veneti Ripasso is made from Corvina, Corcione and Rondella; grapes which suit the eocene marl soils which are typical of the Verona area.
Once again some of the reviews that I have read are un-favourable and once again I disagree. For me, this wine is easily identifiable as Ripasso and it is full of flavour without being cloying. It is very good quality wine from a good producer. It has its own unique character. Surely, this is what finding good wine is all about.
We drank the wine with a guinea fowl stew followed by some strong cheeses and it was the perfect accompaniment. Once again, I recommend that you to try it with strong tasting food if you are unfamiliar with "Ripasso Valpolicella ". Then you can find out what it is all about. You will be pleasantly surprised. It is quite expensive but worth paying the price to find a wine that has a special character.
http://www.veronissima.com/sito_inglese/html/wine_valpolicella-ripasso-ing.html
http://www.amarone.co.uk/
Conclusion
So there you have it; two wines which are made in completely different styles. They still have a few things in common, however. They both reflect the styles of their area of origin. It is relatively easy to recognise where they come from. They are of good quality and they both go well with food. They both have the hallmarks of good wine.
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