Wednesday, 14 November 2012

Leitz 2011 Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Kabinett Riesling


If, it is difficult to understand the labels on Italian wines then it is even more difficult to understand German ones. The classification is very hard to understand. No wonder they identify the wine with the grape. Rest assured that this wine is made by one of the top producers in the Rheingau which is one of Germany's top regions.

The Riesling grape variety is world renowned and it is in the Rheingau, the Rheinpfalz, Rheinhessen and Alsace (France) where it expresses itself best.

The Rosengarten vineyard is situated in the town of Rüdesheim itself on the right bank of the Rhine not far from the most prestigious commune of Johannisberg. Johannes Leitz is one of the top producers. This Riesling is a Kabinett Prädikatswein white wine as described in the postscript. 

The soil, on the south facing slopes of the Rheingau, is slate based which provides good drainage. Whilst the soil is favourable for viticulture, the climate is not as well suited since the vineyards are situated just short of 50 degrees north. The cooler climate usually results in wines which are not so strong in alcohol and this Riesling at 9.5 % is no exception: not that I noticed it.

We drank the wine with a shellfish starter and it went exceptionally well with it. It is off dry and has a mouth watering and fresh acidity which is well integrated into the light body of the wine. It has complex and concentrated flavours of peaches and apricots, just as it says on the bottle; but with citrus fruits and spice. It has a long length and the taste remains on the palate for a long time after swallowing.

Apart from going well with food, I am certain that it would be a very good aperitif as it is light in alcohol but strong in fresh fruit flavours with mouth watering acidity. This fine product from Leitz has all the qualities of an outstanding wine. I recommend that you drink it young. 

We bought it at Waitrose for £9.50 a bottle and I think that it represents very good value for money. I would be prepared to pay more. The Waitrose buyers have found an exceptional wine for the money.

Please try some good quality German wines which have the actual name of the vineyard on the label. I am certain that you will be pleasantly surprised. Leitz 2011 Rüdesheimer Rosengarten Kabinett Riesling is a good starting point.


Postscript

You may be wondering what Prädikatswein and Kabinett mean? Well, Prädikatswein has a similar quality level to the French Appellation d’Origin Protegée or Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée.

Kabinett indicates a level of sweetness for a Prädikatswein and these wines are off-dry. The level of sweetness increases up the scale through Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese (Dried grape selection).

Are you confused? This form of classification alongside the naming convention is very off-putting. So it is no wonder that restaurants are reluctant to put German wines on their lists and wine merchants are reluctant to stock their shelves with them. 

Trockenbeerenauslese, from a good producer such as Leitz, is one of the most prestigious and expensive German wines. It is sweet enough to be described as luscious and the range of flavours is nothing short of amazing.




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