Monday 5 November 2012

Two Countries And Two Different Styles

During the last week we have drunk two bottles of dry red wine which are from two of my favourite wine producing countries: France and Italy. The first wine was 2008 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits "Les Mouchottes" AC. The second was 2008 Domini Veneti Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Vigneti di Torbe from the Veneto.

I love the names of Italian wines almost as much as the wine itself. However, the complexity of the names and the appellation system is not so easily understood and this does not help the consumer. Soave which also comes from the Veneto region is a memorable name even if the wine is not so remarkable.

2008 "Les Mouchottes" 

This wine is drinking well now and I do not believe that it will improve in the bottle for much longer. It is medium bodied with well integrated and light tannins and a well balanced acidity. It is typical of wines from the area with blackberry and cherry flavours on the palate. Burgundy reds are often described as elegant and who am I to disagree with this.

The wine is designed to go with food and we drank it with free range chicken. It will also go down well with game. It is light enough to drink on its own but it is better with food.

The name "Les Mouchottes" identifies the vineyard for a simple Appellation Contrôlée wine. Wine lovers usually use the phrase "lieu-dit" which literally translated from the French means a place or a hamlet if there are houses. The practice of using a "lieu-dit" is frequently used in Burgundy and Alsace.

The  northern climate in Burgundy is semi-continental with hot summers and cold winters. The climate and the calcareous clay soils of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits perfectly suit the Pinot Noir grape used for the red wine. The climate and soil also suit the growth of the Chardonnay grape for whites.

The "Les Mouchottes" vineyard is located in the village of Villers-La-Faye which is not far from its more famous neighbours Nuits-St-Georges and Vosne Romanée. The vineyard has a commercial association with La Chablisienne the famous co-operative situated further north in Burgundy.

I have looked up the comments of other tasters on the internet and this wine is not rated too highly. I disagree with them. This wine actually tastes as if it comes from Burgundy and this is what distinguishes good wine from characterless dross. This is good quality wine which is typical of the region so if you do not like it  then you do not like red Burgundy.

 My wife agrees with me; her father was born near Chablis and we visit Burgundy regularly and drink the wine so often. We both recommend "Les Mouchottes". Majestic supply it at a reasonable price and as far as Burgundy is concerned it is great value for money.

http://www.chablisienne-com.blogspirit.com/
http://www.road-of-the-fine-burgundy-wines.com/tourism/villers-la-faye/36.html 
http://www.burgundy-wines.fr/

2008 Domini Veneti Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Vigneti di Torbe

This wine is full bodied and has more tannin than the "Les Mouchottes": it is a much heavier and best with food. It has a much darker red colour. The wine has intense flavours of red and black fruits and spice. It also has a bitter sweet flavour on the palate which reflects the method of production. It is concentrated and has a complexity which is redolent of a good wine. It has long length.

This wine will keep for a number of years in a cellar. It is well structured for longevity.

Ripasso wines are double fermented. The original Valpolicella wine is "re-passed" over the lees of  the grapes used for the production of Amarone which is a variation of Valpollicella but made exclusively from grapes dried on straw mats. The Ripasso technique induces a secondary fermentation which increases the alcoholic content of the wine and helps to extract more flavour from the grapes. This is why Ripasso has a bitter sweet edge.

Amarone is made almost exclusively from dried grapes but for Ripasso the proportion is lower - about 30%. This is why Ripasso is lighter than Amarone. Domini Veneti Ripasso is made from Corvina, Corcione and Rondella; grapes which suit the eocene marl soils which are typical of the Verona area.

Once again some of the reviews that I have read are un-favourable and once again I disagree. For me, this wine is easily identifiable as Ripasso and it is full of flavour without being cloying. It is very good quality wine from a good producer. It has its own unique character. Surely, this is what finding good wine is all about.

We drank the wine with a guinea fowl stew followed by some strong cheeses and it was the perfect accompaniment. Once again, I recommend that you to try it with strong tasting food if you are unfamiliar with "Ripasso Valpolicella ". Then you can find out what it is all about.  You will be pleasantly surprised. It is quite expensive but worth paying the price to find a wine that has a special character.

http://www.veronissima.com/sito_inglese/html/wine_valpolicella-ripasso-ing.html 
http://www.amarone.co.uk/ 

Conclusion

So there you have it; two wines which are made in completely different styles. They still have a few things in common, however. They both reflect the styles of their area of origin.  It is relatively easy to recognise where they come from. They are of good quality and they both go well with food. They both have the hallmarks of good wine. 
 


 
 

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