Nederburg 2009 Shiraz - Pinotage

A South African fiend gave me this bottle of wine so I had to write a comment about it. This wine is made by a good producer from the Western Cape Paarl valley. The valley has Mediterranean climate and a soil structure which is suitable for both red and white wine production. The Shiraz grape variety originated in France where it is called Syrah. Syrah, in France, is grown mainly in the south and is well suited to a Mediterranean climate. The Pinotage grape is reputed to be a cross between the Pinot Noir and Cinsault grape varieties and, of course, Pinot Noir and Cinsault are widely grown in France but not as a cross.

When tasted on its own and an hour before our meal, both my wife and I rated the wine above average but perhaps a little rustic as it lacked complexity. An hour later and with the meal, the wine really came into its own and the taste of the wine improved. We ate sirloin steak and the wine refreshed the palate and enhanced the meaty flavour. I think the food offset the hotness of the alcohol. This is a good example of how a wine should really be judged. Wine and food go together; so many of the wines that win prizes at tasting competitions may not be the best wines for tasting with food. There is a strong French influence within the South African wine growing tradition and so this could be one of the reasons why good South African wines go with food. For this reason, I rate this wine as very good value for money, but make sure you drink it with a good meal.

One point to remember is that southern hemisphere grapes are harvested six months earlier in the year than northern hemisphere grapes.

Wine: Nederburg 2009 Shiraz - Pinotage

Date: 30 May2010

Appearance: Purple but lighter at the meniscus. Clear and bright. Some tears.

Nose: Clean. String aroma of Red fruits and spices and cloves.
Youthful

Palate: Medium + ripening tannins. Medium body. Medium Acidity. Dry. Hot in alcohol which is not fully integrated into the wine. Concentrated red fruits and spice. Medium length.

Other observations:Refreshing wine. Not particularly complex. Above average. Drink now. Good value for money
Price:
About £4-00

Collio Goriziano DOC

Collio Goriziano DOC wines are produced from vineyards centered on the town of Gorizia in North East Italy near Trieste. Gorizia is very near to the Slovenia border and the political history of the town is very complicated. Up until the first World War, it was part of the Austrian empire. It was the scene of some intense battles between Allied and Austrian forces. In the final stages of the war the Slovenes invaded the town only to be replaced again by Italian forces in late 1918. Finally, Gorizia was incorporated into Italy in 1920. Even though it was absorbed into Italy the Slovenia influence is still very apparent and the Slovene language is still spoken in the area. The Collio Goriziano borders on the Goriska Brda wine growing area of Slovenia and the wines of both areas have a similar character. For instance, the Ribolla grape which is blended into the white wines of the Collio, is called Rebula in Goriska Brda on the other side of the border. The wines of Collio are of high quality and in true Mediterranean style are very fruity whether they are red or white.





This area of Italy is one of the most diverse in Europe with Italian, Slovene, Austrian and even French influences. Just before the the time Slovenia became part of the European Union, a drive around the area was very interesting. Some of the border posts were reserved for Italians and Slovenes only. No matter how persuasive you were, Slovenian border guards would direct non Italian EU citizens to the main border crossing near Trieste where you would be simply waved through with a smile.





Dining in the Collio area is also an interesting experience. Some of the restaurants are literally a home and you are eating home made food in the front garden and drinking a carafe of unlabelled wine from a friend's vineyard. No one cares about varietal labelling. The food is absolutely delicious and the local wine goes with it perfectly and all at very reasonably prices, even though there is no menu. Try it.





The nearby city and port of Trieste, lies on the Adriatic and its history reflects that of the rest of the region. It was finally incorporated, by international treaty, as part of Italy well after the second World War. There is an exceptionally strong Slovene influence which becomes stronger and stronger as you walk out of the city towards the Slovene border. There is also a strong Austrian influence which is reflected in the cuisine in some of the surrounding towns and villages.





Napoleon was also in Trieste so there is a slight French influence on the architecture. James Joyce resided in Trieste for a number of years.





If you pay a visit to Trieste then you must sample the food. Sea Bass is a speciality and of course a Collio white wine goes perfectly. The city is a little run down but why care wine you can find such good wines.





If you are looking for a trip which is fully imbued with great wines and food, and with a little piece of architectural and cultural diversity thrown in, then the the Collio area is the place to visit.

Villeneuve-Sur-Lot

Villeneuve-sur-Lot is one of my favourite towns in the South West of France. It is a fortified town standing on the River Lot 22 miles ( 36kms) north east of Agen. It is in the department of Lot-Garonne and is not famous for wine but for its plum trees and dried prunes and its South Western France cuisine. It is a good place, however, to explore some wine regions which may not be so well known, but which produce wines of strong regional character.

45 miles (75kms) to the east is the city of Cahors, and the N911 main road runs through the Lot valley. Several miles before reaching Cahors, you pass the vineyards growing the Malbec, Merlot and Tannat grapes used for the production of the wine. Most of the production is of the Malbec variety which makes Cahors wine very dark and almost black in colour. The wines are also full bodied. The best vineyards are located on the limestone plateaux to produce a wine which ages longer than those located on the coteaux or sides of the river. Whichever terroir you choose, the wines are excellent value for money and of course match the local cuisine. The tannin structure of the wine helps to cleanse the palate, especially when eating fatty dishes. And, of course, the wines have a lovely red and black fruit character. My wife and I drink them with duck or rabbit stew. The town of Cahors is well worth visiting, if only for the cuisine and food. The town also has mediaeval architecture, including the Valentre or Devil's bridge built in the 14th century, which is the symbol of the town.

A similar distance to the North West is the town of Bergerac on the Dordogne river in the Perigord. The Perigord is famous for its Cro-Magnon cave art, its truffles, its wine and cuisine: and dare I say it Foie Gras. Bergerac reds are produced in the style of Bordeaux wines and represent excellent value for money. Pecharmant reds are one step higher in quality and can be kept longer but they are difficult to find outside of the region. For whites, Monbazillac dessert wines represent a similar quality and style to to those of Barsac and Sauternes, and are made from noble rot white Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle grapes. The noble rot is encouraged by the late autumn mists prevalent in the vineyards located in the Dordogne valley. They have incredibly powerful aromas of honey and citrus fruits and are excellent aperitif or dessert wines at very good value for money. Even some of the lesser known Bergerac Moelleux semi-sweets are excellent value for money and are good dessert wines. If you are taking a wine and cuisine trip to France this area is a "must" to visit.

If you want to venture further South, to the edge of the Pyrenees, then I recommend Pau. Henry IV of France was born here at the Chateau de Pau in the 16th Century. The castle became the home of the Kings of Navarre. The Architecture has been influenced by the British and Lord Wellington created a garrison here. British tourists used to reside and visit here in the 19th Century so there are many English style villas. You cannot make a visit to Pau without tasting some great wines and the Bearn cuisine. Jurancon wines are made in the vineyards situated in the hillsides and valleys rising up from Pau to the foothills of the Pyrenees in the south. There is a mountain climate here which can get severely cold in the winter and hot in the summer, but it is moderated by the south westerly winds from the Atlantic. The soils are either marine sediments or siliceous clays and chalks. Chateau Jolys is one of my favourite dessert wines. It is made from late harvested petit manseng grapes. It is luscious with aromas of grapefruit and honey and is typical of the sweet wines of the area. It competes well pricewise with the wines of Sauternes and Barsac. No visit to Pau would be complete without trying Bearn cuisine: Piperade is one of my favourites; made from tomatoes , onions and green and red peppers and often eaten with the local Bayonne ham. Pau is next to the Basque country to the west and if you venture much further south over the Pyrenees into Spain you are in the Spanish Navarre and the land of Tempranillo.

But back to Villeneuve-sur -Lot, it is well positioned on the wine trail and a stay in the town is justified by the fact that it is a working town. It is not just dedicated to tourism and so it is the real France and all easily accessible from within the battlements.

A night at the Opera

Last weekend , my wife and I went to the theatre to see the Kentish Opera perform Carmen. It was a very good performance. Which was more than can be said about the Chilean "Sauvignon Blanc" white wine which was on sale. The wine had and overpowering smell of cat's pee, yes cat's pee, which is derived from the metoxypyrazines compounds in the wine. These compounds give wines, like Sancerre, from the Loire valley, their characteristic herbaceous aroma. Some of the metoxypyrazines also lend a hint of cat's pee as they are actually a byproduct of cat's metabolism. The aroma should not , however, be overpowering and any Sancerre style wine should also have other fruit characters to add complexity to the wine. The Chilean wine is trying to mimic the Sancerre style, but it fails miserably to leave a one dimensional wine which simple tastes of chemicals . It was almost undrinkable. The name was easily forgotten. There was only one redeeming feature; the the length of time that the aftertaste left was very short. This was obviously a bulk wine trading off the name of "Sauvignon Blanc".

Gout de Terroir

There is so much discussion about the subject of "gout de terroir". It is a French term which is used to describe a wine whose taste has been influence by the geography of the vineyard where the vines are grown. It is meant to include the soil of the vineyard and the macro and micro climatic conditions of where the vineyard is sited. Thus "le terroir de Gevry-Chambertin" would mean "the area of Gevry-Chambertin" when applied to wine. It is not meant to mean that the wine has acquired a taste of soil.

Many wine technologists have questioned whether wine can really have a "gout de terroir" or a taste of regional character. The debate continues along the lines that it is wine faults or the type of wild yeast on the outside of the grapes, how the wine is made etc. which really influences the taste of the final product. Of course, there are many influences on what makes a wine taste good or bad or different. I would have thought that it was obvious that the soil and climate have a considerable influence. Soil too dry and the grapes will perish. Too much rain and the grapes will rot. Not enough sun at the right time and the grapes will not ripen. If you try to grow Syrah grapes in the South of England you will fail to make good wine, despite global warming.

This argument reminds me of Edward de Bono's book "Practical Thinking" where he describes "Four Ways to Be Right and Five ways to be wrong". He points out the example of a Doctor who can recognise, immediately, that a child has got measles and does not need a battery of blood and biochemical tests to confirm the diagnosis. This is recognition rightness.

I often wonder whether the protagonists on both sides of the argument have spent more time reading and writing about the subject than actually tasting wine.

Anyone who has drunk many many bottles of Epineuil, Irancy, Chitry and Coulanges-la-Vineuse reds will instantly recognise that all these wines have a distinctive "gout de terroir" despite who makes the wine. This recognition rightness can be applied to the other wines of Burgundy and also to the wines of Champagne, and many other wines from other countries.

I also ask myself why the most modern wine producers make soil surveys, of potentially new vineyards, before they make plantings?

Many "bulk made" wines have been produced in vineyards where the soil and climate are unsuitable for the grape varieties grown. They are fermented with standardised yeast cultures and are often adjusted for acid and sugar levels; they are treated before bottling to remove naturally produced crystals to make the wines look good. Some of these wines will have been treated with wood chips to make them taste as if they have been matured in oak barrels. The result is that the wines all taste to same no matter where they come from. It is difficult even to taste the difference between a "Merlot" wine and a "Cabernet Sauvignon" wine. Try a blind tasting with your friends and see the results. No wonder the marketing men want to quash any thoughts that wine should have a distinctive regional flavour.

I prefer wines with regional character no matter how the taste is produced.

Col de L’Orb 2005 AOC St Chinian Cave de Roquebrun

Col de L’Orb 2005 AOC St Chinian Cave de Roquebrun

This wine is exceptional value for money. The blend of grapes matches the schistous soils and the climate of the Languedoc perfectly. I am impressed by the quality of all of the wines of La Cave de Roquebrun, which is certainly worth visiting not just for the wine but for the breathtaking scenery and cuisine of the Languedoc. This wine goes well with southern French cuisine whether it is cassoulet , mutton or confit de canard. When I tasted this wine at the Caves, I was expecting to pay much more than 7 EUR per bottle. It shames a bulk produced wine from anywhere in terms of both quality and price. What more could you ask for?

Wine: Col de L’Orb 2005 AOC St Chinian Cave de Roquebrun

Date: 17 April 2010

Appearance: Clear and Bright, Purple in colour. Tears

Nose: Clean. Pronounced smell of Blackcurrants, Red Fruits and Spice. Ready for Drinking

Palate: Medium + mature and ripe tannins. Medium + body., Dry, Well integrated acidity. Medium + alcohol. Very concentrated flavours of red fruits, blackcurrants and spices. Savoury flavours. Medium Plus length

Other observations: A well integrated complex wine with concentrated flavours. Has regional character. Good quality. Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre and Carignan. Unfiltered. Manual grape picking.
Very good value for money

Price: About 7 EUR per bottle.

Domaine Viré Durif 2007 Bourgogne Chitry AOC “Pinot Noir”

Domaine Viré Durif 2007 Bourgogne Chitry AOC “Pinot Noir”

This is an estate bottled wine from the Yonne, which is one of my favourite areas of the Bourgogne region. Chitry is situated not far from Auxerre and Chablis on outcrops of Kimmeridgian marls. The wines from Chitry are often termed Côtes Auxerrois, an area which also includes the wines of Irancy, Epineuil and Coulanges-la-Vineuse. The climate here is semi-continental and it can be cold in the winter and very hot in the summer. The canicular heat of 2003 brought forward the harvest by about one month. The climate is, however, moderated by south westerly winds from the Atlantic.

The Yonne is the most northerly area of the Burgundy region so the Pinot Noir grape produces a light red wine here.

This wine is a light garnet in colour and you could mistake it for a Rosé. The wine, however, shows all the regional character of the Côtes Auxerrois with its ripe cherry flavour and taste of minerals. It is less full in flavour than an Irancy and also lighter bodied. It is an excellent value wine for everyday drinking at 7 Euros per bottle. Some websites sell it much dearer but I buy it in the area.

The wine is marketed with the brand name “Pinot Noir”. I cannot understand why producers are doing this. Most buyers of this wine know that it is made from Pinot Noir and the distinctive regional taste is just as much the product of the soil, the climate and the production techniques. It has a genuine “goût de terroir”. Varietal labelling will not go away, so I suppose I shall have to give up my opposition; well eventually anyway.

We drank this wine with cuisses de canard, pot roasted in their own fat, with potatoes and haricots verts. The wine went well afterwards with a selection of French and Welsh cheeses. It was fine dining at reasonable cost.

Wine: Domaine Viré Durif 2007 Bourgogne Chitry AOC “Pinot Noir”

Date: 14 May 2010

Appearance: Bright and Clear. Pale Garnet. Lighter Rim. Tears

Nose: Clean. Pronounced Cherry and Red Fruits , Some Spice and Minerals
Fully Developed.

Palate:Dry. Medium Tannins which are softening. Medium + acidity. Medium (minus)-Body. Pronounced flavours of red fruits and cherries, Spices, Marzipan and Minerals. Quite complex and of Medium Length.

Other observations:This wine shows all the regional character of the Yonne. It is of above average quality Drink now as it will not improve much with age. At 7 Euros a bottle it represents good value for money.

Price: 7 Euros

Plantaže 2008 Merlot Lake Skadar Valley Podgorica Montenegro

Although I have spent plenty of time in the Balkans, I have never visited Montenegro and the only montenegrine wine I have even drunk is Vranac.
I first tasted Vranac in Serbia and my Serbian friend, who lives in London, regularly gives me a bottle after trips back home. Vranac, is a heavy full bodied red wine just made to go with Balkan cuisine such as Pljeskavica which is like a hamburger made of beef or lamb and flavoured with onions and spices. It is delicious and fully recommended on a trip to the region.

When I saw a bottle of Plantaže 2008 Merlot on promotion in the local supermarket I had to try it. This dry red wine is nowhere near as full bodied as the Vranac and does not have the exceptionally full flavour, and I doubt if it will keep anywhere near as long. But the wine is well integrated and is made in a more fresh and modern style and of course they have branded the wine “Merlot”. The wine is estate bottled, and you can tell it, and it has no hints of bulk wine production. It went well with steak but I doubt if it would handle the more heavily flavoured food from the region. The wine brought back many memories of much time spent wining and dining in Croatia, Serbia and Slovenia.

This wine is good value for money at around £5 to £6 but I would not pay anymore.
Hopefully, we shall see some more Balkan wines making an appearance on our supermarket shelves.


Wine: Plantaže 2008 Merlot Lake Skadar Valley Podgorica Montenegro Estate Bottled

Date:02May2010

Apearance: Bright and Clear. Deep Purple. Lighter meniscus. Produced legsNose
Clean. Developing. Pronounced red fruits.

Palate:Dry with a medium +body. Medium + ripening tannins. Medium Acidity and Alcohol. Pronounced flavour of red fruits, stewed fruits and stone fruits some spices and a savoury taste. Quite complex. Medium +length.

Other observations:Fresh well integrated taste, more elegant than a Vranac. Good wine and good value for money .European and Mediterranean Style. Drink now but will keep a couple of years

Price:£ 5.50

Tenerife Surprises

I thought that Tenerife was best for its climate and the stunning scenery of the Teide national park, rather than its wines. And I always believed that Tenerife would have been on the climatic margin for quality wine production. But the moderating influence of the Atlantic ocean and the location of the vineyards on the volcanic slopes indicated that I was wrong. The volcanic soils are also well drained and fertile. The last few days of my trip in early February were remarkable for the amount of rain, with some parts of the island receiving over 180 mm of rain in one day on the 2nd of February. I was amazed about how quickly the rain drained away from the volcanic slopes despite heavy localised floods.

We were staying at an apartment in Puerto Santiago (one of the smaller resorts) on the north western coast of the island and made several walks in the area around Santiago del Teide to see some of the vineyards and the volcanic slopes before the rain prevented our hiking.

I was surprised by the number of both German and British visitors to the island and was even more surprised by the number of "British" and "German" products in the supermarkets. I was even more surprised to find so many bulk Australian and Californian wines on sale.

Why come to Tenerife to drink new world wine? Is the local wine so bad? I had to try a bottle. The first one we tried was Marqués de Santiago Blanco Seco 2008 Ycoden-Daute-Isora. It was excellent with fish and had hints of green fruits and asparagus. It was much cheaper than a bulk Australian and I thought why on earth are the British not drinking this local delight? But of course, the power of branding and marketing is so strong. People become so familiar with a brand that they probably do not regard it as being a foreign product.

I never take or buy British products when I make a trip anywhere, not even tea. Maybe I am an exception to the rule and why buy Australian or Californian wine when in Spain? I would never dream of drinking Spanish wine on a trip to California or New South Wales.

In Tenerife they match the wine to the cuisine, but if you are eating Wall's sausages from the UK why bother with the local delights; each to his own taste.

I have made some brief notes about the other wines I tried on my brief visit to Tenerife , I urge all visitors to try them and others with the local cuisine which often consist of sardines, hake, solomillo (steak), roast kid and rabbit. The local potatoes cooked in their jackets with salted water are also delicious.

Viña Norte Red Tacoronte-Acentejo DO 2008 and produced by carbonic maceration:an excellent wine with intense red fruit flavours and full bodied with a long length on the palate.

Viñátigo Ycoden-Daute-Isora DO 2008 made from the Baboso Negra grape. This wine is full bodied , dry red with very concentrated red fruit flavours. The wine also has well structured tannins which are well integrated with the refreshing acidity. The wine at 15% alcohol did not taste hot. There was a long length on the palate. We drank this wine too young; it will not reach full maturity until 5 to 10 years. This was the best wine that we drank during our entire stay; although it is quite expensive at 20 Euros or so for a bottle. Drink with red meats.

"Patio Real" Urbano Diaz Dorta of Santiago Del Teide, Ycoden-Daute-Isora DO 2008 Dry Red wine; once again a wine that has a pronounced flavour of red berries and well integrated tannins and acidity. The wine had a long length on the palate and will keep. It is the perfect accompaniment to the local cuisine.

Flor de Chansa 2008 Cumbres de Abona Abona DO Dry white wine: this was a well balanced and structured wine with flavours of green fruits and gooseberries a nd with a mouth refreshing acidity. To be recommended with fish.

Bodegas de Miranda Valle de la Orotava Do 2008 Dry Red wine: this wine is full bodied and well balanced and structured for tannins, acidity and red fruit character, some flavour of blackcurrants. The wine will keep for several years.

Climate Change and Wine

Most scientists now accept that Global Warming is in fact happening and some scientists, including James Hansen and James Lovelock, are making dire predictions of what might happen if we do not control and reduce emissions of greenhouse gases within the next decade or so. They even go as far as to say that it might not be possible, in the near future, to reverse the changes that mankind has already set in motion.

Palaeo-climate research also suggests that the climate made sudden and rather dramatic changes in the past. For instance, when the world was warming up from the last ice age a sudden reversal was made, within the lifetime of human beings, to plunge the earth back into ice age conditions. The earth remained in this state for a thousand years or so before returning quickly, within ten years, to a more temperate climate as today. Such were the conditions of the Younger Dryas period.

The IPCC (Inter Governmental Panel for Climate Change) predicts that there will be a smooth increase in temperature as carbon di-oxide and other greenhouse emissions continue to rise. This prediction is probably not accurate and as more energy is added to the atmospheric system we should expect sudden changes. The cold experienced by Europe and North America in January 2010 should be set into perspective. As a global average, January 2010 was one of the hottest on record.

The wine industry faces two problems: global average temperatures which will probably rise by 2 degrees centigrade or more before the end of the century; and sudden changes to the weather patterns, resulting in unexpected cold or very hot periods, drought and heavy rain.

We are already seeing the results of climate change. The weather has warmed up in the Bordeaux region , so that we have seen a series of improving vintages. The conditions within the last decade or so have been optimal for the growth of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Semillon and other Bordeaux grape varieties. But how long will these optimum conditions last for? Will it become too hot, in the future, to allow for a series of great vintages?

We should also consider what will happen in more Northerly climes. For example the Pinot Noir grape thrives in the cooler environment of Champagne. Climate change may affect the quality of the world's most famous wine.


The French Ministry of Ecology and Sustainable Development has calculated that for every 1° C rise in average temperature, climatic conditions are displaced by 180 km towards the North(N) (in the Northern Hemisphere)

If we assume that climate change predictions are correct then there will be a substantial impact on the wine industry.

The regions of the world where vine growing is optimal could easily change. We are already seeing the effects of desertification and drought in Spain and Australia. In some wine growing areas viticulture is impossible without irrigation. Vine growing conditions in some countries, such as the UK, might improve for a short period . The types of vine grown might have to change. As discussed before, the Pinot Noir grape might become unsuitable for growth in the Champagne region and this could have serious implications. There is also the possibility that desertification could pose problems not only in Spain but in the South of France and viable viticulture may be rendered impossible. These dangers are also faced by Australia. Many wine growing regions of the world might need to change the grape variety grown. For instance, the Syrah grape variety is well adapted to hot growing conditions. Perhaps the Syrah grape will have to replace the Gamay in Beaujolais or the Pint Noir in Burgundy. But will it suit the soil and will it change the character of the wines completely?




The phenology of the vine and vine pests will also have to be considered. We have touched on this before, the conditions of the growing season may change. In winter, frost helps to rest the vines and eradicate vineyard pests. Changes to the seasons may have adverse effects on viticultural techniques. Excessive heat and rain at the wrong time could spoil the growing conditions. When the average temperature rises above 21 degrees centigrade the soil is unable to retain moisture, so even the heavy rain which is expected as a result of climate change will not help to fertilise the soil. Some vineyards require damp misty conditions in the morning followed by autumnal heat in the afternoon to encourage noble rot. Such weather helps to produce the finest sweet wines of Sauternes and Bergerac , climate change could prevent this happening. Global warming will probably have adverse effects in all areas of the world practising viticulture.

In Europe, the appellation rules and wine legislation are strict but changes will be required to allow for more irrigation and to allow different grape varieties to be grown in the controlled areas.

The social and economic consequences of damage to viticulture could be serious, if not calamitous, especially in Europe. In countries such as France and Italy wine is intricately interwoven into the cuisine and into the social fabric of society. We have even seen substantial social unrest in France when the wine industry is threatened by government intervention or removal of subsidies. Climate change poses a bigger threat than politics. The wine industry employs thousands of businesses in France, Italy and Spain so the economic consequences of damage to the industry will be considerable. Even states such as California will not be immune to the consequences. On a personal level wine might become too expensive to drink on anything other than important occasions. The traditional characters of our wines might disappear if the the wine varieties grown in a region have to be changed or irrigation is deployed. Some wines, relying on noble rot or a special climate, such as Monbazillac, might disappear completely.

The number of fine vintages will decrease or disappear altogether and we might be left with no investment wines. The price of 2005 Mouton Rothschild held in cool cellars might have rocketed by 2030, so that only extremely rich corporations or governments will be able to afford to buy them. The long term investment potential for fine wine looks good from a monetary point of view.

I am not normally a pessimist, but all this could happen within the next three decades. All I can say to young people is "enjoy your fine wine responsibly now and lay some down" . In two to three decades time, fine wine might not exist or if it does it might be too expensive to enjoy.

Slovenia’s hidden Wine joys

When I first visited Slovenia I was more than pleasantly surprised by the quality of some of the wines. I visited a restaurant in Lubljana and asked the owner to recommend me a red wine to go with my steak. He produced a bottle of Vipava 1894 and from then on I was hooked. After a little more exploring, I found the Movia Wine bar near the cathedral and sampled the heavenly delights Movia wines and the local Kraški Pršut ham.


Many older readers from Britain will remember Ljutomer Riesling, which was very popular in the 1970’s, and introduced many British to wine drinking. This wine was indescribably bad and how it ever converted British beer drinkers into wine lovers I will never know. But in those days the beer was almost as bad and the campaign for real ale had hardly got going. All countries have good and bad wine and Ljutomer Riesling can still be found on the Croatian border under the new guise of Ljutomer Laški Rizling, and a lot of it has not improved much.

The top quality wines that I am writing about, are not the ex-Yugoslavian plonks of the 1970’s but modern Slovenian wines which are equal to some of the best from France, Italy and the USA. These wines are grown by small producers who exploit the best from their soil and climate. These wines are made by producers who want to rival the quality of the finest Kraški Pršut.
The area under vine in Slovenia is small at around 24,000 hectares and it is confined to three regions which are at a similar latitude to Bordeaux.

The Primorska (Primorje) region situated next to the Adriatic has a Mediterranean climate. Primorska produces Slovenia’ finest wines from four areas: Brda,the Kras, Vipava and Koper. I could swear that the Čotar Kras Terra Rossa made from the Refosco grape has medicinal qualities that give you strength when drunk with an aged steak.

The Posavje region runs alongside the Sava region and is famed for its blended wines. A particular favourite of the Slovenians is Civiček which is a very light red wine which is fresh and fruity and blended from both red and white wine and drinks well with Slovenian sausages.

The Podravje region runs alongside the Drava river. Maribor is Slovenia’s second city and boasts the oldest vine in Europe and the Vinag wine cellars which are well worth a visit. The Ljutomer- Ormož is located in the low hills near to the Croatian border and produces the regions best wines. I recently tasted a Jeruzalem- Ormož Sivi Pinot ( Pinot Grigio) which was a very good wine with pronounced aromas of peaches and stone fuits and well balanced acidity; it was perfect as an aperitif. They also produce good dry sparkling wine. Jeruzalem rests on a sleepy hillside with its well laid out wine terraces. There is a long tradition of viticulture which predates the Crusaders, some of whom claimed it was the real Jerusalem. After tasting the wine, wisely, they decided to proceed no further.

The wines of Slovenian are difficult to obtain outside of the country, so why not pay a visit to appreciate some of the finest alpine scenery, cleanest lakes and extensive limestone caves in Europe. And, of course to match, these fine natural attributes are the wines and the cuisine to go with them.

Below is a list of other recommended producers:
From Goriška Brda
Movia – Rebula, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Modri Pinot ( Pinot Noir)
Marjan Simčič - Rebula
Edi Simčič – Rebula and Sauvignon Blanc
Vinska Klet Bagueri Merlot and Chardonnay
From the Kras:
Boris Lisjak – Izbrani Teran
From Vipava:
Vipava 1894 Lanthieri – Cabernet Suavignon
From Koper:
Santomas – Refosk ( Refosco)
Vinakoper – Capo d’Istria
From Ljutomer- Ormož:
Čurin – Sauvignon Sweet white wine from noble rot grapes
Magdič – Modri Pinot ( Pinot Noir)
From Maribor:
Vinag - Laški Rizling

A trip to Troyes

I have just made a trip to Troyes with my wife to visit the French side of the family. Troyes is the former capital of the Champagne region. It is located about 150 kms south east of Paris and about 110 kms south of Reims. The old city was designed in the shape of a champagne cork and features many 16th century half timbered houses. It was once part of Burgundy and King Henry V of England married Catherine, the daughter of the French King, at Troyes in 1420 to become heir to the French throne.

Troyes, as "capital" of the Aube department, is well placed in the champagne region. To the north there are the famous vineyards of the Montagne de Reims where the top cru are situated. To the south east there are the lesser known vineyards, centred upon Bar-sur-Seine and Bar-sur Aube, which produce a different more forward or fruity style of Champagne than the producers in the North. Some of the wine from this department is shipped North to be blended into the champagne of the Marne based negociants.

Troyes , is also very close to Burgundy and not that far from Alsace so it is well supplied with wine from both of these regions. My gastronomic trip reflected the wines of all three of these regions and others.

My first port of call after meeting the relations was of course a supermarket. Whilst waiting a long time for my wife to do the shopping, I browsed the wine shelves of Leclerc. The first wine to catch my eye was Cave de Roquebrun 2007 Col de L'Estrade St Chinian. I have visited their caves in the Languedoc Region: their Baron D'Aupenac and Seigneur D'Aupenac reds are some of the best wines I have ever tasted, so I could not go wrong buying a couple of bottles of their lesser wine at EUR 5.67 a bottle.

So to lunch at my sister-in-law. No French lunch would be complete without an aperitif and a bottle of Alsace Gewurtztraminer was produced along with a bottle of Cassis or Blackcurrant Liqueur. I tasted the wine before the offer of the Cassis and thought that it tasted very good, it was semi-sweet with hints of honey. I declined the Cassis. I do not know why the French love to flavour perfectly good wine with Cassis. However, they live for dessert and so perhaps that is why. To me it is like mixing coke with a grand cru Cognac - sacrilege at best. The wine went down well with some Asparagus.

Now for the second course Lapin en Cocotte; we ate the magnificent rabbit stew with the 2007 Col de L'Estrade St Chinian. The wine had pronounced aromas of red fruits and spices and held up well with the with the strong gamey taste of the rabbit and the earthy tastes of the pleurotes (oyster) mushrooms which accompanied it. My brother-in-law opened a bottle of Chassagne Montrachet rouge to taste in comparison: this wine was more elegant, but quality of the St Chinian almost matched that of its much higher priced cousin.

Even though we had opened three bottles of wine and gorged ourselves on four courses, five of us had only consumed three quarters of a bottle of wine in total, so an hour later it was safe to drive to Montgueux for a walk.

Montgueux is situated 10 kms or so due west of Troyes. It is a sleepy village mounted on a hill with deep seams of chalk. At the top of the hill and on the south to south easterly facing slopes are around two hundred hectares of mainly chardonnay grapes. Some of the
grapes are sold to the champagne houses situated further north in Epernay and Reims. The little known champagnes of Montgueux should be tried in comparison to the wines from the north of the region. Many of the locals from Troyes do not like them as they think they taste green, whatever that means; I find them a little sharp and unripe if that is what you mean by green. It all adds to the local character of the wines. The most renowned Champagne from this region is Jacques Lassaigne.

One wine blogger, I have read, has described these wines as "Chablis with bubbles". I cannot think why, perhaps it is because Chablis is only 70 kms to the south of Troyes but the geology in Chablis is completely different. The Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling wine produced in the Chablis area is made by the traditional method, but it has its own unique regional flavour which is nothing like Champagne. I would advise the blogger making a trip to the regions of either Champagne or Bourgogne to keep remarks like that to himself!

After a stroll through the leafy countryside and vineyards of Montgueux we ventured to a different set of in-laws for another four course meal. This time we celebrated with champagne as an aperitif. Our wine was Albans D'Aulbe from Buxeuil in the Aube department. This Champagne was typical of the wines from the area.

The soils of the Aube region are derived from the Kimmeridgian chalk and limestone based marls and are geologically very different to the cretaceous chalks of the Marne; the climate too is more similar to the Chablis Area. The champagnes produced are, therefore, different in style. There was debate as to whether the wines of the Aube should be classified as Champagne at all. The producers and negociants of the Marne still regard Aube champagne as second class. The co-operatives and negociants of the North are happy, however, to include Aube based wines in their blend. Even though the soil in the Aube is very similar to the Chablis area , the wine still tastes like Champagne and is easily distinguishable from Cremant de Bourgogne. Try some Albans D'Aulbe or Cheurlin Dangin from Celles sur Ource. The Pinot Noir grape, which dominates the plantings in the Aube, contributes to the fruitiness of the wines.

But, back to the food, after the aperitif I stopped taking notes. My wife spotted a Premier Cru Chablis, blind, which we used to wash down a seafood brochette. She ought to be able to spot a Chablis as her father was born in the region.

For main course we ate Filet Mignon en Croute. In France Filet Mignon is pork, not beef, so do not get confused in a restaurant. Our Filet Mignon was cooked in pastry and was delicious when accompanied by a bottle of Arbois 1999 red wine made from the Trousseau grape, this wine was still very fruity and going strong after eleven years in the bottle. I recommend a bottle if you can find it. The wine also went well with a selection of French cheese following the main course.

After eight courses of food during the day, we planned a trip to Chablis for the following morning.

Chablis my favourite white wine; maybe it is because of the slightly mineral taste derived from the Kimmeridgian and Portlandian based soils. I prefer the sharp edge that it gives to the wine.

After a trip through the vineyards, we joined some cousins for lunch at Le Syracuse. We each sampled a glass of house Chablis for an aperitif with its typical mineral falvour and then selected a bottle of Irancy red for the main course. I had never tasted Jean Marc Brocard's Irancy before, as he is more famous for his excellent Chablis. His 2008 Domaine Sainte Claire was a delight; light in colour with a distinct flavour of cherries and with a light mineral taste. I did not notice any bitter tannins and the fresh acidity went well with both a bavette steak, which I ate, and the sandre or zander which my wife ate.

The town of Chablis is remarkable only for the wine but it has a very good Sunday market, so it is well worth visiting. The area has many interesting wines including Chablis, Irancy, Epineuil and St Bris, which is a Burgundian white made from the Sauvignon Blanc or Sauvignon Gris grape varieties. All these wines reflect the terroir of Auxerre area.

After all that eating and drinking it was time to head off back to Troyes for a simple Pizza and a glass of water for supper.

A rant against Varietal Labelling of Wine

I went for a pub lunch yesterday and was deciding what to drink when I saw the wine of the week advertised on the board: Grillo -Viognier it proudly claimed. The name sounded awful. Some wine drinkers will know the name Viognier, but only the real cognoscenti will know that Grillo is a little known grape variety from Sicily, which was used principally for the production of Marsala. I decided to eat a hamburger so I opted for a beer.

Why on earth do most wine drinkers want to know that their Sicilian wine is made from the Grillo grape. Surely, they are more interested in where the wine comes from and who made it. There are some excellent fruity red and white wines coming from the island and they are excellent value for money.

The practice of naming wine by the grape variety originated in the Alsace region of France. Why they ever did this I do not know. It did not make their wines anymore well known . Gewurztraminer does not trip off my tongue too easily.

Think about it: wine is made from grapes and the process completely transforms the flavours of the grape to other aromas and tastes. Wine never tastes of grapes. There is no point drinking wine if you just want the taste of grapes; just slip some vodka into the grape juice and off you go.

I am always amused when I hear someone, in a wine bar, order a glass of white wine, "not Chardonnay", but when given a Chablis they rarely complain. Who I am to criticise, I order wine by the grape variety myself, but I wish I did not always have to.

The reason why consumers do not like "Chardonnay" is because most "Chardonnay" is produced using the same techniques , from grapes which are unsuited to the soil and from vines which have been recently planted. The wine will probably have been adjusted for acidity and other chemical levels and will have been filtered. These types of wine are produced everywhere in the wine making world from the South of France, Italy, Chile and Australia. Even though they are made in numerous locations they all taste the same. And, that is why they have the same name, "Chardonnay", on the bottle. They are perfectly good wines but the consumer is getting bored. So they ask for Pinot Grigio instead.

Marketing experts, from the New World have picked up the idea of varietal labelling and they have made "a meal of it". It has been very successful for them. They are trading off the famous names of the noble grapes. Most of these grapes originated in France, even Shiraz which is a synonym for Syrah. The French wine market has been set back so much, by this ploy, that it now responding by changing the naming conventions. How long will it be before Chablis is called "Chardonnay"; Bourgogne Rouge is called "Pinot Noir" and Bordeaux is called "Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc"- what a mouthful in more than one respect?

One of my favourite American wines is Qupe but the name Syrah never enters into my mind even though it is on the label. I have had the pleasure of drinking Penfold's Grange and I have always thought of it by name, not the fact that it is made from Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. It is the pedigree of the winemaker that matters not the grapes that he uses. But the variety must match the growing conditions. Pinot Noir grapes thrive in cooler climates that is why they are used to make Champagne and Red Burgundy. Wine made from this grape variety and grown in a hot climate usually tastes awful: that is why I never drink a "Pinot Noir" from the South of France.

One of my favourite American beers is from the Brooklyn Brewery, they make fantastic beer and market it well without telling me the variety of hops or barley used to make the brew. They trade off their good name. Wine should be the same. The best wine comes from the best producers or estates and they should be proud to sell their wine by name rather than grape variety.

If you want to find a special wine which reflects the character of a region or a country, then I recommend that you assure yourself that it is made by a producer who uses grapes, from his own estate or from verifiable parcels of land, which are suited to the soil and climate.

Many wines which are labelled according to grape variety are produced in bulk. They are perfectly good wines for drinking at a barbecue or party or at the local restaurant but they are not special. Estate bottled wines will cost you more but they are worth it if you are looking for character and interesting flavour.

Bordeaux 2002

My wife and I were invited to a good friend's home recently. He always serves up good wine and because his wife is French it is always good french wine. True to form a decanter of red wine appeared on the table. One sniff confirmed that it was Bordeaux red. When we tasted the wine, there was a hint of bitterness from the tannins which had not yet softened and there was also a complex array of fruit flavours hidden in there somewhere. The wine tasted of cloves and vanilla from the oak.

My host kept us guessing for a while as we were not able to identify the wine any further than it was exceptionally good wine from Bordeaux.

Our host revealed that it was from Paulliac and it turned out to be Chateau Pichon-Longueville 2002. As he was a very good friend, I pointed out that it was far too young to be drunk and even though he had decanted the wine and let it breathe, the tannins had not softened sufficiently and the fruit character of the wine was still hidden. I expect that this wine will age well over the next decade and will develop into a great wine to reveal the full character of a "deuxieme cru" Paulliac. It is a shame that he had not bought a second bottle to keep for another decade or so, but this wine is very expensive.

Perhaps my friend has spent too long in France. I make many family visits to France and find that most of my relations drink their wine too early. Few French people seem to have the patience to let their wines develop. One exception was my father-in-law; he kept relatively modest wines in his cellar for many years before drinking and they all improved with age. I spent many a happy hour with him tasting some delightful wine from Burgundy and Bordeaux. He even kept some of the New World wines that I brought over from England as a comparison.

When he passed away we raided his cellar to drink the good wine that he had kept for all those years. He left a true legacy and even my French relations admired his patience.

WineOisseur

This blog is dedicated to the appreciation of wine and also to the food that accompanies it. It is also dedicated to wine education and knowledge and seeks to promote the wise consumption of wine from all over the world.