The weekend before last we went to the Lille Wine Fair for the Independent Winemakers of France or the Salons des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants. Here is my review.
Vignerons Indepéndants de France
The Independent Winemakers of France or Vignerons Ind
ép
endants de France was incorporated in Paris in 1978. It protects and promotes independent wine makers. Included in the charter for the winemakers is the will to:
respect their "terroir",
grow and work their own vines,
harvest their own vines,
to produce their own wine,
bottle the wine on their own premises,
market their products
respect wine making traditions,
take pleasure in the presentation of the fruits of their work by encouraging the public to visit their premises and taste the wine.
http://www.vigneron-independant.com/
"Terroir"
The concept of "terroir" is not that difficult to understand; it means a native tang. A wine that has a "goût de terroir" reflects the particular taste of the region. The soil, geology, climate, weather, wine growing and wine making techniques all have a bearing on the character of the wine. Some makers even claim that the culture of the region also has a bearing and who I am to disagree with that.
The concept of "terroir" is not limited to France and even shows up in Australia where high quality winemakers have always taken the soil, climate and weather into account in their wine making practises.
If the concept of "terroir" is neglected, however, we will end up drinking bland, bulk produced wine which is lacking in character and individuality. Such wines are OK for a party or barbecue or sloshing back at home in front of the TV but if you want a wine which goes with a particular food or for a special occasion then you need to look for a wine with a "goût de terroir".
Why Drink their wines
The Independent Winemakers form the backbone of quality wine production. Because, they are not linked to large co-operatives or bulk wine producers they can concentrate on their own product, market and livelihood. They are not beholden to shareholders and are not obliged to maximise the return on investment or profitability to the detriment of the quality of their wine.
The top brand names of France, particularly of Champagne, Bordeaux, and Burgundy are very expensive. Some of these wines are only bought by investors and their price is now so high that they are inaccessible to ordinary folk who will never get to drink them.
There is no need to worry, however, most of the Independent Winemakers make wine which tastes just as good as the top brand names even if the wine does not keep as long. In case of Champagne, I find the taste and quality of the wine from the good growers and makers often exceeds that of the top brand names who blend their products from different vineyards and areas.
The Independent Winemakers represent exceptional value for money; high quality wines at reasonable prices. So, it is among these producers that the wine enthusiast can find wine of individual character and high quality. The bulk wine market cannot do this.
There is room for all wine producers and there is no need to disparage bulk wine makers from any region or country and I drink these wines myself. They are there for when you just want to drink acceptable quality wine without worrying about where it comes from. But if you want something a little bit different then the Independent Winemakers are the people to look for.
The Wine Fair
Lille is a good place for a wine fair. The city itself has some fine architecture and a comfortable feel about it. The food is very good and there is a brewing tradition so some of the cuisine is based on beer. It is easy to get here from Britain, Belgium, Holland and Northern Germany.
There were 578 vignerons and thousands of individual tasters and buyers along with a good number of buyers from the wine trade. With such a huge numbers of exhibitors and so many visitors it was sometimes difficult to strike up a conversation with the producer. The Champagne stands were particularly busy. I quickly gave up taking notes and just enjoyed the occasion. Individual wine tasting invitations are better if you want to take notes.
I did not spot any Masters of Wine or pundits with score cards. Who wants to score wines anyway and how can you possibly say that one wine is 19 out of 20 and another 18? It is a numbers game which plays into the hands of investment wine makers. At this wine fair you were mixing with down to earth people who just want to enjoy making or drinking good wine.
We spent the whole of Sunday and Monday morning at the Fair which had plenty of regional food to eat and buy and the facilities were good but a little bit stretched. As per usual, I spat out most of the wine that I tasted to remain sober but sometimes I found it difficult not to swallow the Champagne - for some reason.
And now let's look at some of the producers and their wine.
Domaine de La Cune - Loire Valley
We attended the wine fair courtesy of Jean-Luc and Jean-Albert Mary. They are members of 3D wines and my sister and brother in law are one of their customers. I have already written about how good I think their wines are and we have a case of their 2010 Saumur-Champigny Rouge waiting to be drunk. You must also try their Crémant de Loire.
I like the attitude of this Domaine; they are not frightened to use science and technology to improve results without forgetting about wine making tradition. Their wines are very good quality and very good value for money. I would be prepared to pay more for them. This is wine making at its best.
This time we tasted their white wines: the Saumur Cuvée Tradition 2011 and the Cuv
ée La Favorite 2011. Both wines are based on Chenin Blanc and are light to medium bodied with a crisp but well integrated acidity. They have all the fresh green fruit and tangy flavours that I would expect from a Saumur Blanc and their style is easily recognised. I preferred the La Favorite which had more concentrated fruit flavours.
I recommend that you drink them young. They would go particularly well with fish. 2012 was not a good vintage in northern France so I wish them the best of luck. A visit to this stand stood us in good stead for the rest of the tasting. It was a very good start and put me in a really good mood.
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/3d-wines-saumur-champigny-2009-domaine.html
http://www.3dwines.com/french/loire/domaine-de-la-cune.html
Château de Roquebrune - Lalande de Pomerol
In a few steps you could travel south from the Loire to the Bordeaux region. The name Ch
âteau de Roquebrune brought back memories of a visit to the Cave de Roquebrun in the Languedoc. Cave de Roqubrun produces some of the highest quality wine of St Chinian. Chateau de Roquebrune matches its quality if not its style. Not that my observations would cut any ice with the Libournais.
We tasted the 2007 red and the 2009 "Cuvée Reine" these are both excellent wines which are typical of the Lalande de Pomerol. They are full of red fruits with soft tannin and a medium to full body. 2009 was an excellent vintage and the "Cuvée Reine" is a particularly fine example. The wine had all the lively and concentrated flavours and complexity that I would expect from a very good wine. The flavour lingered long on the palate.
This wine has an individual character and I could have quite happily supped a bottle there and then. It is made predominantly from the Merlot grape so it can be drunk young but I am certain you could keep this wine for a good number of years to improve in the bottle.
The vines are grown on sand and gravel soils which are almost perfect for the growth of the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes which make up the blend.
As chance would have it, this was the only Bordeaux wine that I tasted but I did not go far wrong. This wine is worth searching for.
http://www.chateauderoquebrune-wine.co.uk/wine-presentation.htm
Château les Marnières Pécharmant - The South West Region
I very rarely see Pécharmant on sale in England ,if ever, so I was attracted to this stand. I was not disappointed. Pécharmant is the grand cru for the red wine of the Bergerac region. It is made in similar style to Bergerac reds but the wines are more concentrated and complex and have more tannin will allows them to age for longer: up to ten years or more.
Château les Marnières is a classic example and although the 2010 Pécharmant can be drunk now it should improve in the bottle for several years. The quality of this wine can easily compete with its better known cousins in Bordeaux. It also has some Malbec blended into add some tannin structure and intense ruby colour. This Pécharmant is one of the best I have tasted and is exceptional value for money. Try some if you can find it.
Château les Marnières also produce Bergerac red and dry white and Monbazillac. We tasted the Monbazillac 2010 "Les Nobles Fruits" this wine is also excellent. It is produced from grapes exposed to "noble rot" which concentrates the sugars in the grapes to produce a sweet wine in the style of Sauternes. This wine was full of the flavour of fruit confit and citrus fruits and, of course, honey. Another wine which is good value for money.
This was one of my favourite stands. In my mind, P
écharmant and Monbazillac are under-rated stars. They both have the goût de terroir to complement the wonderful cuisine of the
Périgord.
http://www.chateaulesmarnieres24.fr/vin-rouge-du-sud-ouest-situe-pecharmant.html
http://www.chateaulesmarnieres.com/produits/pecharmant-2010-fut-de-chene
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noble_rot
http://www.terroir-france.com/region/southwest_monbazillac.htm
http://www.pays-de-bergerac.com/english/wine/index_pecharmant.asp
Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge - Languedoc
I was pleasant surprised to see this wine here. Mas de Daumas Gassac rouge is made in a Medoc style primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Because the blend of grapes does not fit into the appellation rules the wine is only granted Indication Géographique Protégée status. However, this wine has all the quality of a Bordeaux or Bourgogne Grand Cru.
The vineyard is situated in the Pays d'Hérault north west of Montpellier and in the Gassac valley. The special soil here is made up of calcareous limestone grèzes mixed with red powder earth derived from the ice age. The soil combined with the micro-climate of the valley perfectly suits the growth of high quality grapes which are raised according to organic standards.
We tasted the 2010
Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge. This wine is of outstanding quality but it is still a little closed up. To appreciate it at its best it needs to be allowed to develop in the bottle for much longer. After five years the wine should be drunk with food and decanted an hour or two before you dine. It will be full of concentrated and complex red and stone fruit flavours which will charm you.
The wine will develop in the bottle further for another 20 years or so. Why not buy two bottles? Keep one for five years and the other for twenty if you can resist it. The wine is expensive but not exorbitant. Buy it to savour on a special occasion.
The circumstances of the tasting did not do justice to the wine as it is best appreciated in private with good friends over dinner. However, it was a treat to both see it and taste it.
http://www.daumas-gassac.com/Mas_de_Daumas_Gassac_Rouge-p-50-c-34_35.html
http://www.robersonwine.com/shop/mas-de-daumas-gassac-rouge-2008
Domaine Mourguy -Irouléguy -The South West Region
The South West Region is diverse and fragmented and does not have a specific identity of its own such as the Côtes du Rhône. It is therefore more difficult to market and sell the wine. Because of this some of the treasures of the "region" are well hidden and quite often only wine enthusiasts know the names. I was with my sister and brother-in-law and luckily they are open minded enough to give the lesser known wines a try and buy them.
The Irouléguy vineyards are situated in the Northern Basque country not far from the Spanish border. They only occupy 210 hectares which is only a tiny amount of space. The Basque people are renowned for their independent spirit, their individuality and their special language. This is, of course reflected, in the pride of their culture and their wine. The Basque country is certainly worth visiting on both sides of the border.
In the far South West the Irouléguy vineyards enjoy a maritime and montane climate. There is plenty of rain in the winter and spring and ample sunshine in the summer and autumn to develop and harvest the grapes. The mountain slopes and terraces also protect the vines from being damaged by the strong south westerly gales of the Atlantic.
Basque farmers rear a lot of sheep and pigs and the spiciness of the Irouléguy red and rosé wines go really well with spicy sausages, ham, game and sheep's milk cheeses. Domaine Mourguy produces Irouléguy red and rosé and they are both very good wines which reflect the goût de terroir of the area.
The 2010 and 2011 red wines are deep purple in colour and have a strong structure derived from the Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon blend. They are matured in oak barrels and they are full of red and stone fruit flavour and they will certainly age well.
The Basques are also seafarers so what better wine to go with fish than Irouléguy blanc.
We also tasted a well rounded 2011 rosé which I am sure would be a good aperitif in the summer but would also go down well with food. Once again it is difficult to find these wines in England and I have not seen them very often on French supermarket shelves but they worth searching for.
Domaine de Pountet Côtes du Brulhois - The South West Region
The Côtes du Brulhois vineyards are situated to the south of Agen on both sides of the Garonne river. It is a tiny appellation almost as small as that of Irouléguy. The style of the red wines is more akin to Bordeaux but perhaps a little more "rustic" in the best sense of the word. It is an up and coming appellation and I could not resist a visit to this stand. These wines are becoming finer and more subtle - so watch out Bordeaux.
I have never come across Domaine de Pountet Côtes du Brulhois before but I was certainly impressed with their 2009 L'Horloge. It is made from Malbec and is deep purple in colour with a strong taste of blackcurrents and stone fruits. It is complex and concentrated with a strong tannic structure. It is not ready for drinking yet.
The vineyard is situated on the village of Saint Cirice and is composed of gravelly, calcareous soil on south west facing slopes. The climate is similar to that of the Bordeaux region but because it is further in land it is more continental in aspect.
Some wine writers turn theirs noses up at the thought of Brulhois wines but do not be put off if you read any criticism of this Domain as their wines are high class. I bought half a case of this wine even though I have not got much more storage space at home. The 2009 L'Horloge will be kept for five years or more to improve in the bottle. My brother-in-law was sufficiently impressed to buy half a case of the 2008.
This wine is difficult to find so if you see it snap it up. At 86.40 Euros for half a case it 's a bargain and it puts some Bordeaux wines to shame as far as value for money is concerned.
The tasting was getting better and better or was it because I was tempted to swallow the wine rather than spit it. It was time for lunch but this time I drank no wine with my oysters - a rare occasion indeed.
http://www.pountet.com/wine-brulhois-pountet.asp
Champagne Gilbert Jacquesson
All of the Champagne stands were getting very busy, perhaps it was because it was getting very close to Christmas and Champagne is everyone's favourite wine. Champagne Gilbert Jacquesson is produced in the village of Troissy not far from Châtillon-sur-Marne on the left bank of the Marne river. Troissy is not a particulry renowned village and does not lay claim to premier cru or grand cru status.
The wine is excellent, however. We tasted the Non-Vintage (NV) Brut Tradition which is made exclusively from Pinot Meunier grapes and the NV Brut Sélection which is made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Both wines were typical of the area and I particularly appreciated the Brut Sélection which had a savoury taste alongside the fruit aromas. Surely, this Champagne would be great with a hearty breakfast if you can stomach alcohol before lunch which I cannot.
The
Jacquesson vineyard is not immediately situated on the chalk strata which are starting to dip here so the soil is composed mostly of clay and sand. But the influence of the chalk from deeper strata must still be there. To me the wine tastes just as good as a premier cru.
I prefer the taste of this champagne to the more international and blander blends of the negociants and the Champagne houses. This is because Gilbert Jaquesson makes his own Champagne from his own grapes with exceptional care. It is well recommended.
http://www.champagnegilbertjacquesson.com/ElementsRubrique.aspx?SITE=B426&RUB=1&MP_SS_RUB=ELEM&MP_ELT=DETAI&PAGE=1
Champagne Etienne Doué - Montgueux
My wife is from Troyes so she sought out this Champagne which is produced in the village of Montgueux in the Aube department not far from Troyes. Montgueux is a charming village and the vineyards sit on top of the hill facing south east.
The soil here overlays seams of chalk and is similar to the soil in some of the top villages further north near Epernay and Reims. There is no reason why they cannot make the best Champagne as the the climate is also not very much different to that further north. The Champagne is, however, not very well renowned, especially with some the local people who disparage the Champagne as being green.
My wife managed to inveigle her way through the crowds of people and we managed to talk to the producer. The first wine that we tasted the NV Cuvée Sélection did taste a little green or acidic but it was not in the least bit unpleasant and you may find that this type of wine suits your palate.
The second that we tried was the NV Cuvé Tradition and this was another level up. It was richer and had more finesse just like its cousins from further north. This suited my palate very well and the next time I am in Troyes I shall buy some. Montgueux is well worth visiting if your are in the Troyes area and the wines from this pleasant hillside location are improving all the time.
http://www.champagneetiennedoue.com/index.php
http://en.db-city.com/France--Champagne-Ardenne--Aube--Montgueux
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/trip-to-troyes.html
Other Champagnes
Even though the activity around the Champagne stands was getting frenetic, my wife was determined to taste. It was now getting almost impossible to strike up any sort of conversation with the producers, who of course, made their own Champagne from their own grapes.
The best we could do was to push our glasses somewhere near the counter. Our glasses were obliging filled with some sparkling nectar from the following suppliers. They we all NV Brut Champagnes and they tasted jolly good too:
Champagne Gaidoz-Forget, Ludes-Premier Cru NV from the Montagne de Reims;
http://www.champagne-gaidoz-forget.com/
Champagne Henri Chauvet, Rilly la Montagne Premier Cru NV from the Montagne de Reims;
http://www.champagne-chauvet.com/index.htm
Champagne Dhondt-Grellet, Flavigny from the Côte des Blancs;
http://www.dhondt-grellet.com/fr/
Champagne Liébart-Régnier, Baslieux sous Chatillon from the Montagne de Reims;
These producers are now trying out organic farming methods.
http://www.champagne-liebart-regnier.com/
We had had enough of the scramble for Chamapagne so we headed South West again.
Domaine Cauhapé - Jurançon - The South West Region
The Jurançon moelleux dessert wines from Domaine Cauhapé are simply superb. The vineyards are situated in the foothills of the Pyrenees just west of Pau. The summers are hot here but the hot summer sun is also moderated by the maritime influence of the Atlantic ocean. The climate and weather combined with the clay and flint stone soil provide some of the best growing conditions.
I bought a half case of the 2011 Ballet d'Octobre; produced primarily from late harvested petit maseng grapes. The wine will keep for several years and it is simply irresistible with foie gras, salty cheeses and fruit desserts which it matches perfectly.
The range of flavours in good Jurançon moelleux wines is simply amazing and there is a perfect balance between the acidity and sweetness on the palate. They are also very good as an apéritif served chilled but not cold.
Ballet d'Octobre is a classic example of one of the best Jurançon wines. The Domaine also makes very good Jurançon Sec.
http://www.jurancon-cauhape.com/
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/tour-of-france.html
Domaine de la Guicheharde Côtes du Rhône
This domaine is located in the hamlet of Derboux near Mondragon in the
Vaucluse. The Domaine is starting to practice bio-dynamic farming techniques according to the standards of Rudolf Steiner and Maria Thun. This form of agriculture involves planting according to the phases of the moon and using cow dung contained in cows' horns to fertilise the soil.
During my conversations I forget the word for cow dung - la bouse de vache- and used the more crude French- merde de vache. The producer got my drift and we started talking about Rudolf Steiner techniques. I am of scientific mind and I simply do not believe in the "mysticism" and superstition involved. However, fertilising the soil with horse and cow manure has been practiced for centuries and it works.
There can be no harm in working in harmony with nature and the positive aspects of this benefit humans and the planet as a whole. However, I cannot accept the mysticism surrounding all this from an intellectual point of view.
http://www.biodynamie-services.fr/preparations-biodynamiques/compost-bouse-maria-thun-cbmt.php
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/9146710/Maria-Thun.html
Some wine experts believe that it is best to taste wine according to the phases of the moon. This must be hogwash. There are a number of other variables to be considered such as temperature, humidity, oxidation of the wine or contamination, odours in the room or even variations in your mood or senses before we take into account the phase of the moon. Where is the evidence? I am sure no-one buying at the wine fair had any idea what phase of the moon we were tasting in.
h
ttp://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/wine/7676520/Does-the-moon-affect-how-a-wine-tastes.html
Anyway does the wine taste any better? Domaine de la Guicheharde produces excellent Côtes du Rhône red and my brother in law was impressed enough to buy a case of the 2011. It is high quality wine but I have tasted many Côtes du Rhône wines which are just as good even though they were not produced by bio-dynamic techniques.
Perhaps, the advantages come from working with growing techniques which use natural fertilisers and pesticides etc. rather than the artificial products of industrialised farming. Perhaps, bio-dynamic farmers just care more about their vines and this is reflected in the quality of the wine. I believe this, rather than superstition, improves the quality of the finished product.
See my blog here:
http://winejaw.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/natural-wine.html
You may decide that natural wine is better for you after all.
http://www.domaine-guicharde.com/
http://www.biodynamie-services.fr/preparations-biodynamiques/compost-bouse-maria-thun-cbmt.php
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/9146710/Maria-Thun.html
Christophe Ferrari Domaine St Germain, Irancy - The Yonne valley Burgundy
My wife's father was born in the Yonne valley, not far from Chablis, so we had to taste some Irancy. Christophe Ferrari is the most prestigious producer here. Irancy is one of my favourite wines; it is full of cherry fruit flavour with a goût de terroir associated with the Kimmeridgian soil and the northern climate of the area.
The tasting circumstances were not very good especially for the 2009 red. This wine needs to be kept for a number of years to develop and improve in the bottle and the wine goes best with food. I recommend pheasant. There are cherries and red fruits galore with a mineral edge. The wine is elegant. Irancy is difficult to obtain in even in the UK so a visit to the area is essential.
Why not go there? It is not that far from Calais. The Domaine also produces Chablis but I did not taste any at the show. If you want to buy these wines anywhere other than France it might be best to contact the Domaine directly; they speak English. You will not be disappointed.
http://www.irancy-ferrari.com/index.php
http://www.irancy.org/vigneron.php?id_vigneron=7
http://www.redrobewines.co.uk/Irancy.htm
Domaine Alain Mathias Epineuil
Epineuil is another village in the department of the Yonne. It is located not far from Tonnerre alongside the banks of the
Armançon river. The terrain is based on Kimmeridgian outcrops so the soil, the microclimate and the Pinot Noir grapes render a style of red wine which is similar to Irancy. The quality of the wine is similar and I cannot decide which wine I prefer but it is probably the Epineuil. Once again this wine is for food.
Alain Mathias's Epineuil is fantastic; it is full of cherry and red fruit flavours with a mineral edge. It is light and elegant. It will keep and improve in the bottle for five years or so. It is also very difficult to obtain in the UK and many retailers and wine bar staff have never heard of the wine let alone Alain Mathias. It is better to contact the suppliers directly or better still pay a visit to Tonnerre as the town needs all the revenue it can get.
It is worth visiting the Yonne. The wine growers here are isolated form the rest of Burgundy. The people are not as rich and do not feel that the world owes them a living and this is reflected in the quality of the wine and the very good value for money it provides. I am glad that I found Domaine Alain Mathias here. They also produce a very good Chablis.
Domaine de Vodanis Vouvray The Loire Valley
The next day it was time to pick up the wine we had bought but not before tasting some 2010 Vouvray Sec and some Vouvray Pagus 2010 and 2009 mousseux or sparkling wine. These wines are excellent and reflect the style of Vouvray. Domaine de Vodanis use organic farming techniques.
François Gilet and Nicolas Darracq are making very good wines which are full of fruit flavour. They are taking exceptional care to make good wine. I cannot say much more than these wines are fantastic.
Champagne René Geoffroy
My wife could not resist a final taste of Champagne and I am glad I was with her. We tasted the NV Brut Empreinte Premier Cru. This wine is fermented in oak casks and is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. It is brilliant Champagne which merits grand cru status. It is as good as any Champagne that I have ever tasted and I have tasted a lot of champagne from the brand name houses and grower producers.
We spoke to some Belgian customers who come back year after year to buy it and they could not speak more highly of this producer.
This Empreinte Premier Cru would be an excellent aperitif but why not drink it with oysters.
We also went away with some NV Coteaux Champenois Cumières Rouge traditionnel (without bubbles) made from Pinot Noir; another wine to be savoured with food.
Champagne René Geoffroy is available from a number of suppliers across the globe but if you are nearby why not pay them a visit. Ay is not far from Hautvillers where Dom Pérignon is buried.
The taste of this outstanding Champagne was a superb way to round off our visit.
In conclusion
We spent a very happy time tasting the wines of the independent winemakers of France. In the afternoon the gigantic hall got a little bit crowded and the facilities were stretched to their limit. To really take the time to taste the wine, take notes and talk to the producers you need to go to a smaller tasting.
There are many advantages to going to this sort of show, however:
You get to meet more down to earth people,
You can "travel" across all of the regions of France to make comparisons between the styles of wine,
You can find and taste wines which you did not know existed and just by chance,
Above all, you can taste some great wines and buy them at reasonable prices.
All in all this was a great success.
